06-09-2018, 09:43 PM
It seems that way, Electro. Although, the chassis isn't rusty, which I find amazing considering the condition of the cabinet.
So, what did I do today?
Not a lot on the T7-5. Grocery shopping, mowing, replacing the handle on a storm door, more mowing, and then...finally, after supper, a few hours with the RCA.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_011.jpg]
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_012.jpg]
What took the most time was the little .01 uF cap in a metal case. I managed to get the unit apart (no easy feat) and restuffed it with a yellow film cap. I filled the unit with hot glue for good measure. That took up most of tonight's time with the radio.
I also replaced a couple wires and one resistor. I also removed the second IF can cover, cleaned it, and put it back in place.
In addition, I checked the two Candohm resistors. One is good (R16-R17-R18), but the other has one bad section (R15 and R20; R20, 15K, is the bad section). Greg, you called it; one bad Candohm section. Only, it was the Candohm that was not visible before I removed the cross-braces and the extra added electrolytics. Time for a Mouser order. By my calculations, 5 watt resistors should be sufficient for both R15 and R20 but I will likely use 7 watters instead.
While I am at it I might just go ahead and replace the three section Candohm (R16-R17-R18) as well.
So, what did I do today?
Not a lot on the T7-5. Grocery shopping, mowing, replacing the handle on a storm door, more mowing, and then...finally, after supper, a few hours with the RCA.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_011.jpg]
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_012.jpg]
What took the most time was the little .01 uF cap in a metal case. I managed to get the unit apart (no easy feat) and restuffed it with a yellow film cap. I filled the unit with hot glue for good measure. That took up most of tonight's time with the radio.
I also replaced a couple wires and one resistor. I also removed the second IF can cover, cleaned it, and put it back in place.
In addition, I checked the two Candohm resistors. One is good (R16-R17-R18), but the other has one bad section (R15 and R20; R20, 15K, is the bad section). Greg, you called it; one bad Candohm section. Only, it was the Candohm that was not visible before I removed the cross-braces and the extra added electrolytics. Time for a Mouser order. By my calculations, 5 watt resistors should be sufficient for both R15 and R20 but I will likely use 7 watters instead.
While I am at it I might just go ahead and replace the three section Candohm (R16-R17-R18) as well.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
