12-24-2018, 11:32 AM
welcome to the forum,
i am a tad north of you actually.
play things of the past > google it,, is a good place to shop for your parts and he is really good about shipping.
i suggest a new cord that has a built in fuse to protect your radio, or remote mount a fuse under the chassis with a fuse that is future proof.
double check all your existing caps match the schematic you are using, once you do that, go through some of the resistors to make sure those color band values match the schematic as well. reason i say this is because it would not be the first time someone discovers after the fact they are working from a schematic that is the right model & code number but wrong "run number" etc.
i generally snip off the old cap at the tube socket or whatever but leave about 1/8'' of wire on the radio. my new cap i will pigtail the end and drop it on the wire i left behind ,, add flux then solder. this way you introduce less problems pulling at old wire on pins and such.
i am a tad north of you actually.
play things of the past > google it,, is a good place to shop for your parts and he is really good about shipping.
i suggest a new cord that has a built in fuse to protect your radio, or remote mount a fuse under the chassis with a fuse that is future proof.
double check all your existing caps match the schematic you are using, once you do that, go through some of the resistors to make sure those color band values match the schematic as well. reason i say this is because it would not be the first time someone discovers after the fact they are working from a schematic that is the right model & code number but wrong "run number" etc.
i generally snip off the old cap at the tube socket or whatever but leave about 1/8'' of wire on the radio. my new cap i will pigtail the end and drop it on the wire i left behind ,, add flux then solder. this way you introduce less problems pulling at old wire on pins and such.
