07-17-2023, 11:50 AM
Hi Guys:
Thanks for the advisements. I have established that the fuse that goes in the fuseholder is a 15 amp glass fuse and so a modern 15 amp AGC will probably be what I use...others at the Early Ford V8 forum say this is what they use in their F-1442 radios...I think I also found out that the Philco fuse part number 7227 you see in the schematic parts list is a 15 amp fuse. I have attached two photos of my power wires...they are in rough shape. You see that the wire with the fuse holder (goes between the receiver and control head) is bare in a few spots so I should be able to measure the diameter of the conductor. BTW, in addition to finding another metal in-line fuseholder I have also found some carboard cylinders that slide over the fuse to insulate it from the metal fuseholder. You notice that the other cable has a break in it where someone twisted the wires together...I believe this is where a security switch used to be in the cable but is now missing. The Philco radio installation for Ford cars in 1937 had a security switch in the locking glovebox so the radio could be disabled by the owner and not turned on simply at the control head power/volume switch. (This is because it was/is very easy to run down a car battery with these radios when the car was off). I have also located an antique SPST switch that I will mount in my locking glovebox to replicate the OEM set up. The combined length of these two cables is about 6 foot length. So I guess I have a little more homework to do before I call Rhode Island Wire Services.
Thanks for the advisements. I have established that the fuse that goes in the fuseholder is a 15 amp glass fuse and so a modern 15 amp AGC will probably be what I use...others at the Early Ford V8 forum say this is what they use in their F-1442 radios...I think I also found out that the Philco fuse part number 7227 you see in the schematic parts list is a 15 amp fuse. I have attached two photos of my power wires...they are in rough shape. You see that the wire with the fuse holder (goes between the receiver and control head) is bare in a few spots so I should be able to measure the diameter of the conductor. BTW, in addition to finding another metal in-line fuseholder I have also found some carboard cylinders that slide over the fuse to insulate it from the metal fuseholder. You notice that the other cable has a break in it where someone twisted the wires together...I believe this is where a security switch used to be in the cable but is now missing. The Philco radio installation for Ford cars in 1937 had a security switch in the locking glovebox so the radio could be disabled by the owner and not turned on simply at the control head power/volume switch. (This is because it was/is very easy to run down a car battery with these radios when the car was off). I have also located an antique SPST switch that I will mount in my locking glovebox to replicate the OEM set up. The combined length of these two cables is about 6 foot length. So I guess I have a little more homework to do before I call Rhode Island Wire Services.
