[vecher]

All, I have a model 600A Tube tester from the estate that I was looking at. I haven't bought it yet. But was allowed to take it and look it over..

[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...gd6cqo.jpg]

Looks good from outside.. But as I was checking some parts on inside I ran into something..

[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...xxmhzv.jpg]

5 Resistors on a board.. Does any one know what values these are? Hard to follow schematic as it not clear..

This is what I get .. From left to right

Bottom to tap 958 Ohms Bottom to top 6644 Ohms

bottom to middle 25.5 Ohms bottom to top .58 Ohms Top to middle 25.6 Ohms..

That one makes no since at all I checked it 5 Times..

Next Bottom to top 1831 Ohms ( its marked 1800 Ohms)
1296 Ohms Should be 1200 Ohms..

Last 155.9 Ohms and .3MH

There is corrosion all over under chassis .. A fine white powder

Anyone restored this model??

Skip...

[morzh]

Skip

I have 600A. The resistors are original.

Wirewound resistors don't change values. They either open or stay exactly where they were.

[John R]

Free downloads of Hickok data including schematics from this site.

http://www.stevenjohnson.com/hickok/data.htm

If you get the 600A be sure to check out the power cord. The wires inside the rubber jacket has a tendency
to crystallize the entire length of the cord. Replace with at least 16AWG. 

[vecher]

Thanks all, I will replace the electrolytic cap across the meter and the .1 cap , Replace the power cord.. Then try a power up. I will bring it up on a Variac..


Thanks all. Will let everyone know how it goes..

Skip...

[Phlogiston]

I like that tester better than the TV-7 and I have both.

[vecher]

Well, Recaped.. Change line cord.. Powered up At 117 Volts draws .2 amps.. Checked the Type 83 and 5Y3 on my other tester both test good..

Tried first test setting the line voltage.. Meter reads nothing when P7 pushed

I measured pins 2 to 7 on octal socket for the Filament voltage.. Looked OK and was able to change it via the line adjust ..

Figured maybe the push buttons needed cleaning.. I did that now waiting for it to dry...

Any thing else I should look at .. I hope the Meter is not bad...

Skip...

[morzh]

Meter could easily be checked, with a battery and a resistor, starting at say 10k and then observing the needle behavior.
Also they should put full deflection current on the meter so ypu know what voltage vs resistor to use.

[vecher]

Ok, I just tried the voltage tests.. The Filament is OK But when trying to read the Plate and others I get 0 volts..

Either all the push buttons are bad ( I doubt it) .. Hopefully not the Transformer..

I guess I will have to measure the voltage on the plates of the 5Y3 and 83 tube.. Then go from there.

Skip...

[vecher]

Well, Stupid me.. I was on the wrong pins .. I do measure voltage according to the Calibration instructions.. They are off however.. since I cannot set the Line control correctly... NO reading on Meter..

Is there a easy way to check the meter?

Looking for a circuit that I can use to test meter?

Skip...

[vecher]

OK with help from Terry.. The meter is BAD .. Go figure.. Replacement meter is over 200.00 ..

Not for me..

Thanks to all for help with this..

Skip...

[morzh]

Skip

1. Here's a Hickok meter for $99. It is not for 600A but maybe someone knows if it would do. Electrically I think it might be either fine as it is or with some adjustments , physically dunno.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/original-Panel-m...SwFNZWupDB

And here's a 600 using the same size(and likely the same) head.


http://www.jollinger.com/radio/misc/tube_testers.html

http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/hickok_600_...ester.html

2. A 600A is a fine instruments, bought mine close yo $400 and it's case is not that good looking. I still think it is worth every penny. If you can have a known good head for $200(negotiable?) it still might be worth it.

[Radioroslyn]

I have made up replacement meters for gear before if you can come up specs sometimes it's just a matter of changing out the movement and scale.

[morzh]

The specs I think (at least what I used to see) with galvanometers are typically shown on the back.
In mA for full scale deflection.

[vecher]

Ok,, My 2nd goof.. Meter is Good.. I didn't disconnect the leads from it. After I did meter was OK.

But still will not read when P7 is pushed for the line adjust..

I tried to check backwards .. Checked the Switch, Pots in line Cleaned all pots .. I did notice that the Bias Fuse they call it should be a # 49 Lamp.. Mine has a #44 lamp in it..

The 49 lamp is a 2 volt .06A the #44 is a 6.3 Volt .25A The # 44 lamp is Good..

Would that cause the meter not to Read?? I would not think so... but cannot find anything else that would cause it not to read... Maybe I am missing something??

Only other thing I found was this..

[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...xxmhzv.jpg]


5 Resistors on a board.. Does any one know what values these are? Hard to follow schematic as it not clear..

This is what I get .. From left to right

Bottom to tap 958 Ohms Bottom to top 6644 Ohms

bottom to middle 25.5 Ohms bottom to top .58 Ohms Top to middle 25.6 Ohms..

That one makes no since at all I checked it 5 Times..

Next Bottom to top 1831 Ohms ( its marked 1800 Ohms)
1296 Ohms Should be 1200 Ohms..

Last 155.9 Ohms and .3MH




Anyone have a layout of inside of this showing part layout??

Skip...

[morzh]

Skip

They are likely what they show on the meter. Again, wirewound resistors rarely deviate much.

And if you have zero measurements they are not the likely culprit, they can distort the result but not to make it zero.

Round up the usual suspects. Check tbe tubes, voltages, switches.....