[EdHolland]

That is brilliant, Steve! It reminds me of bringing our 16 chassis back to life. There is nothing quite like that moment you first hear a station

[Stall-U-Rated]

Oh yeah, thats the BEST PART of doing a restoration. I admit i was skeptical with this one at first because it experienced a test run from the prior owner and a part or 2 looked cooked, but after getting the caps in it and even hearing a little bit of SW before its even been tuned up is very encouraging... Which brings my next question ....

Is there a good source for the tuner pads. Ones that are the correct specs and dont need extra shimming or attention or is that a normal expectation of new mounts?

Thanks..
Steve

[Radioroslyn]

http://www.renovatedradios.com/productli...ondary=114

[Stall-U-Rated]

Thanks for the link Radioroslyn, as soon as they answer the question i posted them about item t03, ill place the order (quiet so far)...

So my shadow meter tests well, so i moved on to getting the tuning wheels  ready to restore.  After i chipped off as much of the old rubber as i could, i inserted them into a cordless drill and used those dollar store mini screwdrivers to whittle  down the remaining rubber in the grooves. (A mini lathe if you will)... A little sandpaper and wire brush to finish. Took very little time to get it down to the metal slats at the bottom...

  Will the remaining residue in the grooves have any effect on the new o-rings?

Steve

[Stall-U-Rated]

Okay, the tuner mounts are ordered.... The answer was i needed 6... Not sold in pairs....

Now, the FUN PART... Removing the soldered copper braids off the tuner bolts...

Suggestions of solder iron that will tackle those braids effectively will be most appreciated...

Steve

[rfeenstra]

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-D550PK-260...eller+d550

[amptramp]

I use an ESICO 17P iron that made short work of reattaching the braids from chassis to tuning capacitor on a Philco 37-10.  I got the braids off with a 140 watt soldering gun but there was no way I could get them back on.  I had this ESICO iron which is only 100 watts but it is an old school tool that took about five seconds to reattach the braids.  ESICO is the Electric Soldering Iron Company and there are pictures that unfortunately are not capable of being copied elsewhere on the net.

[Radioroslyn]

If you are considering the Weller D-550 I've heard that the older model is better. The newer ones (240W) use setscrews to fasten the tip and don't hold tight as the large nut used on the earlier models. Have used the D-550 (325W) to remove the braid and solder to the chassis when needed. Got mine from ebay for about $15+shpg.

[Stall-U-Rated]

Funny you guys should mention the D-550. Turns out, a year or so back my brother bought me a weller kit at a yard sale. Never thought ide need it.. Till TODAY....  The tuner supports showed up today, so i did some digging in a few boxes and found my weller kit and its the EARLIER model..  It made short work out of those soldered braids. New mounts are in, and that tuner is SOLID....

Many thanks for the links and advice.

Tune in soon as i search for the tuner drive o-rings now that our OSH is gone.. Dont know if our home depot or ACE carry the Danco brands described on this site.. On the upside, the oil filter seal from my 68 torino looks promising..

Steve

[Radioroslyn]

> It made short work out of those soldered braids.

Worked good on my '61 Falcon radiator too.

I'll mention in passing that the newer tips for these are made thinner and burnout quicker. When looking for replacements give a close look at the size of the tip at the junction. Same goes for the smaller guns. Have a 100W Weller that I got some replacement tips for and was disappointed in their size and longevity. Some folks use odd bits like heavy ga copper wire or old coat hanger wire.

[Stall-U-Rated]

Went to ACE and dug around in the LASCO o ring drawers and came up with a #32 and a #60 that worked flawlessly in the 2 speed dial drive. Still researching the large dial one before i visit my local auto parts store..

I havent changed any resistors as of yet, having a hard time deciphering them.. I have noticed i cannot get a reading on #53. schematic says its a 4.0 meg (black with yellow band and a green dot) seems to measure open. Not sure if its beyond my meter or my experience. Otherwise, the radio does play.. Anyone with 16b resistor experience please chime in..

Steve

[Ron Ramirez]

Just replace the darn thing. Resistors are cheap.

[amptramp]

There are a number of meters that only go up to 2 megohms.  If you have a meter with the ranges marked, you can see it.  If you have an autoranging meter you might not see it.  But high-value resistors from this era tend to drift upward in value, so replacement is probably the best idea.

[morzh]

Considering the values often go up 50-100%, it might be really high for your meter to read.
What Ron said.
If you want to preserve the looks, use a small (4M resistor doesn't dissipate anything much) 4-5M resistor, solder in parallel and hide behind of the original. Measure before soldering to make sure the total value is acceptable.

[Stall-U-Rated]

Eventually, ill need to tune this unit, Never done it before, and ill need a RF generator.

I saw this on ebay------ 113457284072

Is this an appropriate unit to meet the needs of tuning radios like ours?

Steve