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Hello, im new to the phorum and this is my 1st post. Hope I'm doing this correctly. A few months back, I bought a Philco 39-6 at the auction held by my radio group I'm in for $7. I completely stripped the chassis and replaced all the rubber coated wire including the power transformer. All resistors and capacitors were also replaced. The speaker cone was completely detached from the basket and I carefully removed the cone and cleaned off all the old glue. Using JB super weld, I reattached the cone to the basket . The antenna coil had an open primary and I rewound it by hand until it had the correct resistance. It looks factory made. Yesterday I powered the radio up with my variac and it came up on the first try. The antenna coil works perfectly!!! Radio receives stations all across the dial. I have one question.....this is a transformer set and was wondering how warm the transformer should get? Mine gets very warm, but not so hot that I can't keep my hand on it. I have installed a fuse inline with a 1/4 amp fuse and it doesn't blow so I believe the radio is not pulling excessive current.
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Welcome!! Most all of the transformers in my Philcos also run warm to the touch. As you said, you can keep your hand on them but are very warm after a couple of hours.
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All transformers get pretty warm. Aslong as they are not very uncomfortable to touch, it is ok.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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Welcome!
Couple of thoughts. Would check the line voltage to see if it's high and you could measure the cathode current of the 84. Would suspect something in the order 18ma (total current for the set). The transformer in that set is pretty dinky. If those things are ok then it just the design of the set. Bottom line is if it's not weeping wax your ok.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
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Any thoughts on the dial cord problem I'm having with my 39-6?
I was sent some new cord, someone on here with a 38-12 posted a pic illustrating the proper orientation of the spring, ( to the right of the screw head), but first time I tried to install it, if I tuned to the low end of the dial, then, the line wouldn't turn with the shaft back in the higher direction. 
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Hey Jake, I had to redo the dial cord on my 39-6 also. The spring was on the right side of the screw and the loop for the other end was on the left. Make sure when you install the dial cord there is tension on the cord; it has to be somewhat tight, but NOT so tight that it causes the tuner frame to move . If the cord is too loose, it will slip. It took me several tries before I got it just right and now it tunes both directions perfectly. Take your time.
(This post was last modified: 01-03-2020, 09:08 PM by Tubeglow20.)
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"If the cord is too loose, it will slip. It took me several tries before I got it just right and now it tunes both directions perfectly. Take your time."
Yes. A pic posted in another thread confirms what you said....the spring on the right side of the screw. I guess I just have to get it tighter.
Thanks for the tip bud. 
(This post was last modified: 01-03-2020, 08:27 AM by Jake Blake.)
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Not a bad idea on those sets to install a thin piece of plastic (like from a blister pak) over the dial so the pointer can't scrape graphics off. You can use the mounting screws for the dial to hold it in place.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
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City: Louisville, KY
"Not a bad idea on those sets, . . . "
Hmmmm, I will consider that Terry . Thanks.
I'm also debating a fuse.  Not sure what size to use though.
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Keep in mind that the proper size fuse can still blow, which is probably why few of the old radios are fused. One of the most common ways to blow the "proper" fuse is to turn a warm radio off then immediately turn it back on - how do I know? Little hands at a radio show 
His dad said "he likes to play with knobs". Great! Maybe you should buy him a radio to play with (rather than playing with mine).
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
(This post was last modified: 01-03-2020, 01:07 PM by Phlogiston.)
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Roughly you can figure abt for each watt = abt 100ma. So a 50w set = a .5a fuse.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 816
Threads: 25
Joined: Mar 2014
City: Louisville, KY
"His dad said "he likes to play with knobs". Great! Maybe you should buy him a radio to play with (rather than playing with mine)."
 Touchy issues to deal with, no doubt.
I kinda thought what you describe only applies to the AA5s..... that transformered sets are more stable in their current draw. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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"Roughly you can figure abt for each watt = abt 100ma. So a 50w set = a .5a fuse."
I see the 39-6 is rated for 30 watts consumption in the library, so by your estimate, is a .3 amp fuse is about right?
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Phlogiston said..."His dad said "he likes to play with knobs".
But Russ...yours are so pretty.. 
I debated taking some radios to the little museum I volunteer for but I know there will some poked in grill cloths and other assorted scratches...
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On a transformer set - the tubes are hot, the rectifier is hot and the filters are partially discharged, so that hot-start is going to exceed normal current draw. Yes, an AA5 can do that too. (especially if it is done more than once - click - click - click)
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
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