(12-22-2014, 02:17 PM)Ron Ramirez Wrote: I have to ask this question: Why do you people love Brand Z so much?
Well, if you don't have one that's been hacked on they are pretty roomy and easy to work on under the chassis. In my opinion those black and white painted tin dials look pretty good, are easy to read, and the shutterdial is pretty cool, making the radio even easier to tune. The motor drive is just icing on the cake and it doesn't need to have a complex system of pre-sets since each band has a its own large dial, so it's just an easy way to get from one end of the dial to the other.
I think I sent you a copy of the owners manual a while back, if not let me know. These sets originally had station indicators as shown in the manual, but most are missing today. I have some notes written up by John Goeller on servicing these that I'll e-mail to you.
These radios are like any other on the market back then, they had good points and bad points. If I only collected perfectly designed radios I'd have a lot of empty shelf and floor space
John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
Sorry, no offense intended to anyone when I asked the question "Why do you people love Brand Z so much?". I was just frustrated at the fact that all I can get for a 9-S-262 is a schematic and alignment info. I think I mentioned that I'm rather spoiled by the fact that Philco sets (usually) have very comprehensive service information for each model, by comparison.
I know, 10 of them may be overkill for some, but there are times that these things can come in mighty handy, so I'm glad to have a small supply on hand. I've already used one of them on one of my Philco Tropic radios, and I'll be using two on this Brand Z set (volume control and off-on-sensitivity switch). That leaves seven left for future use.
Well, for my AK808 there is no alignment information.....anywhere. And the 808A (the label says so plus it has the shadowgraph) chassis I have inside conforms to 808 sch mostly.
Also some Philco sch and chassis dwgs suffer from inaccuracy as many of us found out.
So.....count your blessings. It might be worse.
(This post was last modified: 12-24-2014, 10:37 AM by morzh.)
(12-22-2014, 02:17 PM)Ron Ramirez Wrote: I have to ask this question: Why do you people love Brand Z so much?
Simple... eye candy and the shutter dial is pretty cool. No bakelite block capacitors and the chassis is less crowded and easier to work on. While I agree that Philco radios are probably better engineered and may even sound better then Brand Z (but I suppose there are people that will debate that) the cabinet designs leave a little bit to be desired IMHO. But that didn't stop me from picking up the 37-116 a few weeks back. I'm looking forward to working on that one!
Any help I can offer on your 9S262 just let me know.
- Geoff
I agree, great looking radio's.
I have a 10 tuber zenith console that sounds better than most.
I find them easier to work on as well. Fat fingers I guess.
I have sold quite a few consoles, and people always flock to the zenith's.
The Philco's will take much longer to sell.
I have many other brands too that are as handsome as the zenith's.
Trying to get away from the most common models which are plentiful, and stick with the more hard to find and unusual models.
Merry x-mas to everyone and happy new year.
Very sorry to hear about your grandchild Ron.
Very sorry for your loss. I am sure they will enjoy the zenith. Will have a special place in their hearts for sure.
murf
(This post was last modified: 12-24-2014, 12:15 PM by murf.)
The Riders info included the alignment procedure. Thirtiesradio, does your Zenith service manual include an under-chassis drawing for the 9-S-262, or did Zenith just not produce any of those? I'm slowly making progress replacing caps and resistors, but a factory under-chassis drawing would sure help.
I did download Geoff's handmade under-chassis drawing, which has helped.
I wouldn't even mention it if this chassis had not been molested...but since it has been hacked, I'd like to make sure the wires are connected as they should be. As one example of a hack, a previous owner had the suppressor grid of the 6K7 RF amp connected to the screen grid of the 6L7.
Back when I restored my 9S262 I was unable to locate an under chassis drawing, which is why I created my own. The only company I have seen that published under chassis drawings was RCA, on occasion (see attached for an RCA C13-2).
(This post was last modified: 12-24-2014, 05:13 PM by Geoff.)
I've been studying the wiring of the volume control, and it is apparent that the control (with switch) was miswired. So I'll have to figure it all out before proceeding to hook up the replacement control, to make sure it is wired correctly.
I just ordered the resistors needed to replace the Candohm, along with a few 25 pF and 500 pF mica caps. I'll also have to find a 6U5 or 6E5. This chassis has a 6T5 in it...but it is a dead tube, open filament.
While I am waiting on these parts, I should draw my own diagram so I will know how to hook up all of the wires to the volume control, and where the mica caps need to be attached.
I've junked enough Philcos that I have some very long terminal strips. I'll use one in this set for attaching the Candohm replacement resistors.
It was slow getting started, but I think I'm getting into a good groove here. When you're used to working on just Philcos, working on something from another manufacturer is a bit confusing.
(12-24-2014, 03:23 PM)Ron Ramirez Wrote: The Riders info included the alignment procedure. Thirtiesradio, does your Zenith service manual include an under-chassis drawing for the 9-S-262, or did Zenith just not produce any of those? I'm slowly making progress replacing caps and resistors, but a factory under-chassis drawing would sure help.
I did download Geoff's handmade under-chassis drawing, which has helped.
I wouldn't even mention it if this chassis had not been molested...but since it has been hacked, I'd like to make sure the wires are connected as they should be. As one example of a hack, a previous owner had the suppressor grid of the 6K7 RF amp connected to the screen grid of the 6L7.
I can take a look in the 1938 manual. If not I can get you a photo of a restored or unrestored 9 tube chassis.
(12-24-2014, 10:21 PM)morzh Wrote: 6U5 is the electrical equivalent, you will need to tweak the circuit for 6E5 to work correctly.
I found that, at least in mine, a 6U5 did not give much action. It stayed perpetually bright and would not open and close. I replaced it with a 6E5 with no circuit modifications and it worked perfectly.
(12-24-2014, 05:46 PM)Ron Ramirez Wrote: Okay, I will say no more about the under-chassis drawings, or the lack thereof.
Did Philco create under chassis drawings? I don't recall seeing any for the few Philco's I've worked on. They sure would have come in handy. I'm kind of surprised that ALL manufacturers did not create under chassis drawings. Would have made things a lot easier for the servicemen back then... and us .
(This post was last modified: 12-24-2014, 11:21 PM by Geoff.)
(12-24-2014, 05:46 PM)Ron Ramirez Wrote: Okay, I will say no more about the under-chassis drawings, or the lack thereof.
Did Philco create under chassis drawings? I don't recall seeing any for the few Philco's I've worked on. They sure would have come in handy. I'm kind of surprised that ALL manufacturers did not create under chassis drawings. Would have made things a lot easier for the servicemen back then... and us .
No, I looked through the original Zenith service manuals for 1935- 1938 and they don't have under chassis drawings. Too bad as they really help. I did find a couple unrestored 9 tube chassis I can get photos of.
.
