I’ve started to take a closer look at this Emerson 350 aw. A nice surprise, the front logo foil was still there, just seems faded and I took it for a blank area…need to put my glasses on when I’m looking at these! It looks to me as though at one time it was a black background with the raised design and letters probably showing as the brass color. Perhaps I can redo the black enamel …. more to think about.
The front photos are in the “Nov Phinds” thread so I won’t repeat them here. The only schematic I’ve found is Riders (Nostalgiaair link)
I’ll post it here:
It does not list the parts and I’m missing the pilot light so I’m not sure what light to use. It’s a threaded base and I suspect 6.3v since that’s what the 77 and 78 tubes are. My 25Z5 has a dead filament so I’ll have to order another, the other tubes' filaments are good and none have shorts, though I no longer have a tester for them. The 175 ohm resistor pictured with a portion of it in parallel with the pilot lamp is partially ok, i.e. the part in parallel with the filament is open but the remainder ohms out at 165 ohms.
The 500 ohm choke and the field coil seem ok. Haven’t gotten to the rest of the coils. The on-off/volume control does not seem be working at all but I haven’t done any cleaning yet either and this whole radio is pretty dusty (but no mice!)
The brown box like item is where the 3 electrolytics are found. You can only just barely read the label where the red, green, black, and blue leads are identified (although none of those colors except black seem to have survived the years). That should be fun to open up and stuff. This reminds of the Philco 59C I restored…very compact and tight quarters! More later….
It seens like all parts that are not parts of tuned circuits have their values listed, and the lamp is likely 6.3V so you can very well start. And due to the resistor that shunts it the radio will function without the lamp. So....
Other than it being all crammed into the chassis like sardines, should be a walk in the park.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Thinks Mike...I will likely patch in a resistor to provide the 6.3 v so the lamp will actually work. If I understand it correctly the heater string should draw 0.3 amps (based on tube data) so a 6.3 v drop with 0.3 amps would require a 21 ohm resistor. Sound right? A #46 bulb will draw 0.25 amps at 6v
them Emerson's are tuff to work on,,I did a 59Ch ,I installed terminal strips,,to clean up all the grounding spots on the chassis,,,the schematic take time to do the pin numbers of the tubes !!!,, and the capacitors are crambed in so tight,,sometimes you look at the wrong things,,,,I say take pictures of the set as you go,,,I did,,,and really help out,,,the tube sockets suck,,had to replace one,,,Good luck,,Cheers
Oh you mean the old Emerson model 33. I got one of those. Got it back in '87, it's tied to an unfortunate event over Thanksgiving weekend. Haven't fooled with it in a long time. I did have it working years ago. I ought to pull it a part and see what and how good I fixed it almost 30yrs ago.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
So how long have you been hearing voices in ur head?????
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
(11-07-2016, 08:52 PM)klondike98 Wrote: Terry, if you do take the chassis out, let me know what bulb is used for the pilot lamp.
Thanks!!!
Oh I don't even have to take out the chassis to tell you!
It doesn't use one. I would use a .250ma bulb w/a resistor in parallel limit the current though the bulb to .250ma instead of 300ma.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Now that you say that, it does make sense not to use the pilot lamp for this set. There's no dial to illuminate and the existing lamp socket is behind the speaker. They did use this chassis for other models I believe, so the lamp must have been used for those sets. I was just thinking that there was a lamp socket so I was going to put a lamp in it
Thanks!
This set may be tough to get running. I've been going through it to measure coils and see where various components are and it appears the secondary of the first IF coil is open . If I recall correctly the accuracy in rewinding the secondary is much more critical that rewinding the primary. It will take some work to get this coil apart and see if the break is easily fixed or not.
If you can't fix the original IF coil you dissect another IF transformer and remove the lower winding, remount it in your old can. 456 or 455kc won't matter maybe even the 460kc from a Philco set by adding a small mica to lower it's frequency.
What is it with you and IF transformers?????
Have fun!
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
. If I recall correctly the accuracy in rewinding the secondary is much more critical that rewinding the primary. It will take some work to get this coil apart and see if the break is easily fixed or not.