Philco 49-901 restoration
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I picked up this 49-901 on ebay cheap (I was the only bidder  ) because the cabinet is really beat up. It has a hold and cracks on the top and every corner of the base is cracked.
[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4703/2589...e7e8_z.jpg]
I can uderstand how the top damaged might have happened, but not the chipped on base edge. Did someone try to pry it open ?!?
That's going to take tedious work to repair.
[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4772/3987...3a76_z.jpg]
Every corner of the base is cracked.
[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4772/4077...2f23_z.jpg]
My plan is to clean up the cracks with acetone, clamp and use super glue. Then some fiberglass mesh and JB Weld tp patch the hole. Also use JB Weld to build up the chipped edges and any other damage. Then sand it all smooth, prime and paint. Perhaps a color similar to the original green Philco offered.
[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4774/4072...2d79_z.jpg]
(This post was last modified: 03-14-2018, 04:13 PM by Bob Andersen.)
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I started off by cleaning out the cracks. The I closed them up as tight as I could and held together with tape on the outside of cabinet. Then I laid a bead of glue on the inside. Capillary action pulled the glue into the cracks. I also used baking soda which causes super glue to set up almost instantly.
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Sprinkle a little baking soda on super glue at it sets up instantly.
[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4784/4072...85f3_c.jpg]
Something didn't look quite right in this corner and as I examined it, a piece broke off. Turns out it was an old, crude repair attempt with epoxy I think. It took a while to chip away the old glue o I could get a tight fit.
[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4784/4077...3615_c.jpg]
The edges are a little chewed up, but it is in the correct position now and glued securely in place.
[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4779/3987...6cb0_c.jpg]
I was able to get all the other cracks glue up very tightly.
[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4771/4077...3f4f_c.jpg]
Now to patch the hole and rebuild the edges.
[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4775/4077...07fe_c.jpg]
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I cut out a small piece of mesh, placed it over the hole inside the cabinet and held it in place with tape. Then mixed up a batch of JB Weld and applied a thin layer inside and out. I figure it's better to go in several thin layers than one thick.
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Here it is after the second layer has set up. I need to be careful as this stuff takes a few hours to set up and gravity will cause it to run. It will take some filing, sanding and luck to get all the curves right.
[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4782/3989...abe9_c.jpg]
(This post was last modified: 03-14-2018, 04:29 PM by Bob Andersen.)
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That leaves the chipped edges. I am applying several layers of JB Weld here too. After smearing some on with a popsicle stick, I set the cabinet piece upside down so gravity will pull the epoxy away from the base.
[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4772/3989...0fd2_c.jpg]
Again it will take some work to clean them up with filing and sanding.
[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4780/3989...4125_c.jpg]
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Bob;
I used to repair a lot of Bakelite radios at one time, and the first thing I would do would be to wash the cabinet in laundry soap, though TSP would work just as well, to get all of the dirt and grease off of it. Then I would use epoxy to glue up the cracks, the normal 24 hour kind, and hold them together with a combination of tape, clamps, and sometimes string. I used polyester based auto body filler (Bondo) to fill any chips or holes, followed by spot putty to fill any divots in the body filler or scratches in the Bakelite. In my opinion epoxy would work as good or better, but Bondo is easy to sand, and was cheaper so I used it. The tough spot to fix is going to be that broken lip between the top and bottom, it's thin material there.
Regards
Arran
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Wonderful work!
I would like one of these one day.
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I prefer using super glue to epoxy because it allows me to align and clamp a crack before applying any glue. It is very thin and sucks right down into the cracks and bands very well to bakelite. Plus if you use the baking soda trick sets up instantly. The result is a very tight, strong repair.
With epoxy you need to apply to both surfaces and then try to fit them together. Alternately, you can fit it tightly together and rough up the backside (even cut some groves to give the epoxy something to bond well to) and slop the glue on the backside.
I've had trouble with Bondo outgassing in the past and causing bumps in the paint.
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 Good job Bob.
Joe
Joe Bratcher near Louisville, KY
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Great job as always, Bob.
I'm curious, though: why do you favor J-B Weld over fiberglass resin? Look at this example:
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=14921
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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Thanks guys. I had some JB Weld on hand and am familiar with it. I've never used fiberglass resin before but it does look like a great product. I wonder if you can get it in smaller amounts ? It's not very often that I do repairs like this.
(This post was last modified: 03-15-2018, 02:08 PM by Bob Andersen.)
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Super/Krazy glue is probably fine for stabilizing hairline cracks, but in terms of the open ended ones I've never trusted it. I've heard that it tends to crystallize and come apart in certain circumstances, so for structural repairs I always went with two part epoxy, which is pretty much what J.B is but a higher temp epoxy that is metal filled. It's strange that Bob was having problems with Bondo, the Bondo auto body filler that I am thinking of is a two part polyester resin that you mix together much like you would with epoxy. I've never had any issues with the body filler off gassing, but I have with glazing or spot putty, which comes in a tube and is solvent based.
Regards
Arran
(This post was last modified: 03-19-2018, 05:57 PM by Arran.)
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Sorry, I wasn't more specific. I've never user Bondo filler. I meant Bondo glazing compound. As you said, it's solvent based. Basically thick paint.
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I've been sidetracked by a lot of household projects but am still slowly plugging away.
The hole has been filled in and sanded smooth. Need to fill in a small void. Also just about building up the chipped edges too. Hope to have some primer on it soon then I'll have to decide on a color. Leaning towards a pale green like the original example shown below.
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[Image: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/890/40222...4a88_c.jpg]
[Image: https://www.picclickimg.com/d/w1600/pict...s-With.jpg]
(This post was last modified: 08-14-2018, 11:21 AM by Bob Andersen.)
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I recently finally got around to finishing this radio 
After repairing all the damage, I stripped off the paint with over cleaner, hot water and a brass wire brush.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/7852/46639...f40a_c.jpg]
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4903...e790_c.jpg]
Next up, Krylon white primer and Bondo glazing compound for any remaining small defects.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4903...b834_c.jpg]
Then, Krylon Ivy Green paint plus Dupli-Color GOld for the grille and artist water based acrylic for the pinstripes and recessed lettering.
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As for the damaged control drum, I attached a metal collar with set screws to the body with four small screws. There was just enough room for it to fit inside without rubbing.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4912...cb74_c.jpg]
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The only remaining item is the preset jewel indicator. It's quite dim and I left it off while I ponder what to do about it. Apparently because I'm missing a light pipe that can be seen in this example.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4920...3f8d_o.jpg]
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