06-17-2018, 02:38 PM
For openers today, I removed the two-section Candohm.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_037.jpg]
The rivets which held this on the chassis were very stubborn and difficult to remove. I ended up having to grind both sides to get them out.
Next, I prepared two of the three electrolytic cans for restuffing.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_038.jpg]
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_039.jpg]
Yes, the second one is a Philco part. The can that was on the chassis was a replacement, with wires coming out on the end. The original electrolytic had a solder lug on the end. This Philco electrolytic had a solder lug on the end and has a threaded stud for mounting, so this will result in an original-type unit. Once I polish the can, the lettering will disappear and no one will know the difference but me (and you guys reading this thread).
After doing all of this, I remembered the parts that had been soaking in Evapo-Rust overnight. I washed and dried them, and here are the results:
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_040.jpg]
The screws look great, as do the lockwashers.
Unfortunately the grid caps still look grungy. There was a good reason for that - I discovered that just enough grunge had come off in the Evapo-Rust bath to reveal that the grid caps are brass, not steel.
So the grid caps are now soaking in ammonia.
I attached some more terminal strips to the chassis to replace the two-section Candohm.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_041.jpg]
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_042.jpg]
I have a problem. I misread the value of R20 - it is 13K, not 15K. (I had ordered a 15K resistor.)
I'm tempted to use the 15K anyway, but until I make up my mind, this is how it will remain.
My next job will be to restuff and reinstall the two electrolytic cans currently on the bench and waiting. As for the third can, I will have to rebuild it on the chassis as I mentioned in a previous post.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_037.jpg]
The rivets which held this on the chassis were very stubborn and difficult to remove. I ended up having to grind both sides to get them out.
Next, I prepared two of the three electrolytic cans for restuffing.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_038.jpg]
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_039.jpg]
Yes, the second one is a Philco part. The can that was on the chassis was a replacement, with wires coming out on the end. The original electrolytic had a solder lug on the end. This Philco electrolytic had a solder lug on the end and has a threaded stud for mounting, so this will result in an original-type unit. Once I polish the can, the lettering will disappear and no one will know the difference but me (and you guys reading this thread).
After doing all of this, I remembered the parts that had been soaking in Evapo-Rust overnight. I washed and dried them, and here are the results:
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_040.jpg]
The screws look great, as do the lockwashers.
Unfortunately the grid caps still look grungy. There was a good reason for that - I discovered that just enough grunge had come off in the Evapo-Rust bath to reveal that the grid caps are brass, not steel.
So the grid caps are now soaking in ammonia.
I attached some more terminal strips to the chassis to replace the two-section Candohm.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_041.jpg]
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_042.jpg]
I have a problem. I misread the value of R20 - it is 13K, not 15K. (I had ordered a 15K resistor.)
I'm tempted to use the 15K anyway, but until I make up my mind, this is how it will remain.My next job will be to restuff and reinstall the two electrolytic cans currently on the bench and waiting. As for the third can, I will have to rebuild it on the chassis as I mentioned in a previous post.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
