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Ron's RCA 6T2 Restoration
#46

$65 for a 7-J-232 Icon_eek What a deal...even if it was several years ago.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#47

So I was looking over my 6T2 cabinet this evening.

I think it looks pretty darned good for an amateur refinish. The gloss lacquer gives it a nice, deep shine.

And the run on the right side...really isn't that noticeable. I've seen minor runs like this on original finishes (rarely, mind you, but I have seen them a time or two).

I said all that to say this:

I hereby declare the 6T2 cabinet to be...DONE. Icon_biggrin I think it's pointless to keep nit-picking when it looks pretty good now. (Besides, I might mess it up again trying to correct the run Icon_eek so I think I really should leave well enough alone.)

So as I said previously...with God's will, my first project after surgery and recuperation will be to rebuild the chassis of this 6T2. This thread will resume at that time. For now, though...back to the Philco 66B, RCA T7-5, Philco 41-KR, etc. ...whatever I can accomplish before surgery (and I still do not know when that will be).

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#48

Ron;
  Wait about a month for it to cure, then rub out the finish, that will further obscure any flaws in the lacquer.
Regards
Arran
#49

Yes, definitely.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#50

To the average Paul it looks quite super duper, and I bet the thing will play well too. It is a fine period pieces, I love that RCA logo.

Paul

Tubetalk1
#51

Yes, those fresh decals really set it off, it's a beautiful piece.

John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
#52

Thanks guys.

I learned in 2016 when I redid that rough Philco 38-623T cabinet (which now houses a 37-640 chassis) that if you apply decals right after toning, THEN lay on the clear, that the decal lines will disappear. Icon_thumbup That's how I did the decals on this 6T2, and also on the Philco 66B.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#53

So...while I wait for chemo to begin, I decided to start working on the chassis of this 6T2.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_034.jpg]

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_035.jpg]

This is how the chassis looked as of last weekend.

Since I have multiple rubber-covered wires to replace as well as several original paper caps to restuff, not to mention old resistors to replace, I made a decision to just remove all of that and then slowly rebuild it with mostly new wiring, new resistors, and to restuff all of the remaining original paper caps.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_036.jpg]

So far, I've restuffed two of the paper caps.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_037.jpg]

A few of the original paper caps had been replaced over the years. One of the replacements was molded, so it will have to be replaced with something else. It will probably be replaced with a Philco cap since I have several old Philco paper caps but no old RCA caps.

For those of you who want to see a schematic, click HERE (WARNING: Large file - 33.4 MB).

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#54

I will be watching as this is one I have that I hope to have play again.  Icon_clap

Paul

Tubetalk1
#55

I had mentioned in post #2, page 1, this thread that the large Candohm resistor had a bad section.

So today I removed it:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_038.jpg]

Grinding off the ends of the rivets on the inside allowed me to remove the old Candohm. Unfortunately the rivets have become one with the chassis so I will have to drill out the remainder of the two rivets.

I took some time today to restuff the paper capacitors which will be going back into this radio.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_039.jpg]

I have seven of the original nine paper caps. Two were replacements and can be seen on the left in the photo above. One is a blue molded Cornell-Dubilier, and one is a Zenith (!) cap.

I had a few paper caps which I had previously restuffed, and selected two for use in this RCA. One is a generic no-name shell, and one is a Philco.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_040.jpg]

I still need to restuff the electrolytic cans, and build a new speaker wiring harness. Then comes the actual rebuilding under the chassis. I have already replaced all of the wires leading to its various dial lamps.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#56

Ron

Wouldn't it be a bit easier to replace wires one by one? This way you wouldn't have to recreate the wiring from sch/photos/drawings, plus you would keep the physical wire routng paths, which sometimes were chosen for a reason.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#57

Maybe...but I wanted to try this way. (Besides, I've done this before with Philco sets that had rubber-covered wiring - sometimes I find it easier to just gut the chassis and start fresh.) Agreed re: physical wire routing paths. I have high resolution photos of the underside of the chassis prior to removal of the rubber-covered wires, so that will help along with RCA's under-chassis wiring diagram.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#58

I've missed three of five days at work this week due to illness, so when I've felt up to it I've been slowly plugging away on this 6T2 chassis.

(Quick back story: Last week the dentist gave me an antibiotic for a sore tooth. It reacted with another prescription medicine I'm taking. After two trips to the doctor this week - yesterday and today - I'm no longer taking the antibiotic.)

I thought the volume control appeared to be a replacement. I was right:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_041.jpg]

Yes indeed, a Philco volume control.

I'm reinstalling wires, capacitors and resistors.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_042.jpg]

And, yes, I am keeping track of my work, thanks to RCA's under-chassis wiring diagram. A printed copy and a highlighter make this easy.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_043.jpg]

I have made a new speaker wiring harness, and have two of the three electrolytic cans cut open and ready to restuff. I'll need to come up with a third electrolytic can, though; preferably one that is stud mounted and has a solder terminal on the positive end. I might be able to restuff the third can that was in this set, but it was a replacement and restuffing it will not be an easy task.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#59

Chassis cleaned on top...and two of three electrolytic cans restuffed and reinstalled on the chassis.

Before cleaning:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_006.jpg]

After cleaning:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_044.jpg]

And how things currently look under the chassis:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_045.jpg]

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#60

It sure looks clean!

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.




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