Since the tuner dial was going to need to be lubricated I thought I better do that and the rubber tuner cap mounts. Following the instructions in the Tech Section I got to step 3c and went to take the band select bracket off but found it is connected with braided wire soldered to the metal frame behind it...one on each side of the bracket
What's up with that? I can't get that bracket off without unsoldering or cutting the braid. That wasn't factory was it?
I suspect that they are there to perhaps quench any noise generated changing bands from static charges from the band mask and other parts it may come it contact with. I would just unsolder them and resolder when completed.
Don't know how necessary they are. Out of the two 116X's, 116B, and the 660 (all have the same drive setup) I've serviced yours is the first I've seen. Can't be any worst than unsoldering the braid from the tuning cap bolts.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Obtw is your band mask connect to the bandswitch thru a cord (like the one in tech section) or does the use a rod?
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
OK Terry, your recent post mentions my early 116B and its output xformer. This is a learning moment for me...if I'm unable to locate a period replacement and wanted to use a Hammond I think I could use either the Hammond 125D or E based on the 116B having a 10watt audio output. 125E would probably give a little margin. Based on this (Bill Harris) online output xformer tutorial the load impedance for push pull 42s should be around 10k and with my voice coil impedance being something in the range of 1.25 or so (I think), I would want to hook up the voice coil to leads 4 & 5....?? Am I thinking that through correctly?
> load impedance for push pull 42s should be around 10k
Read: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=19260
I think your VC impedance is abt 2 ohms (10"spkr) I'll look it up.
You are correct it is an ohm and a quarter same as the K17/8" 116B spkr.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 11-28-2018, 04:15 PM by Radioroslyn.)
Sorry had pentode on the brain!
Here's a diagram of the spkr's opt termination you might find helpful.
Field coil is # 92 on the diagram no to be confused w/# 98 which is a choke in the power supply section. They look the same on the diagram.
These connection terminal numbers do not correspond to the pins of the spkr plug. Sorry wasn't thinking abt those.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 12-17-2019, 09:26 PM by Radioroslyn.)
I've started to recap and usually start with the electrolytics. To get to caps 100 and 101 I needed to take off a couple of paper caps and the line filter bakelite cap#79. The two paper caps puzzled me, easy enough to recap but not on the schematic. This is what I think I have, does that make sense?
Mine had them also. Replaced them w/2 .01's@630v in series = .005@1260. audio frequency They offer a bit of audio frequency compensation.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Thanks for all the pics and details. I'm preparing to take the same steps with a 116B that I rescued. Where did you purchase the rubber mounts/grommets for the tuning cap? How was the quality? How many did you need? Did you have to replace the cord for the tuner cap? If yes, where did you by the cord? All the Best!
) Will unsolder one end and move on. 
