Philco 116B chassis restoration
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A little progress today. Stuffed the two caps discussed above and the #100 electrolytic. This was the first time I've opened up one of these older can caps and it still was full of liquid! The 10uF Solen film cap just fit into the pvc coupling that helps hold the two pieces of the can together. Had to make a little groove in the pvc to allow the lead that will go to the transformer CT fit along the side of the can.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/8z5g9cnpgq8jwx....jpg?raw=1]
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jocurwluks0hc4....jpg?raw=1]
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ovaxna3l3so701....jpg?raw=1]
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Nice job on the cap can Bob.  I've ran into maybe 4 cap cans where the liquid was still in them.
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Back to the chassis.... I've been stuffing bakelite blocks working my way through and got to cap#80 which is a multisection electrolytic with 1uF, 1uF, 2uF and 3uF connections. To get to those connections you need to work through a few other components... finally got it out, cut open and gutted when what to my wondering eyes should appear but 4 tiny caps with space for only 3....  I bought solens to put in there and think I can stuff the two 1uF and the 2 or 3uF into the can. The remaining one will have to get put in under the chassis unless someone else has a better solution??
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/l8lvef16qqpwsa....jpg?raw=1]
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The values on those cap are not partially critical as they are used to bypass. You could for simplicity use all 4mf@450 or 4.7mf @450v. One of the sets I put 10mf caps in it. Wouldn't bother w/Solens physically too large and $$$.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 12-30-2018, 03:20 PM by Radioroslyn.)
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I'm not sure about the 116B can, but the multi section can in the 118B has lower voltage caps inside then the 450 volt ones found in the power supply, so you might be able to fit something like non polarized, radial lead, Panasonic caps inside, or the ubiquitous yellow poly film caps rather then Solens. I am with you in terms of using film caps in that can rather then electrolytics, though the electrolytics will probably last their shelf life in that can, why not fix the problem permanently?
Regards
Arran
(This post was last modified: 12-30-2018, 03:54 PM by Arran.)
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Thanks Arran and Terry!! the caps voltages specs were
Philco Part# 30-2121
2uF @ 300v
1uFs @ 350v
3uf at 450v
Well, I had gone ahead and stuffed 3 of them in the can and will fit the 2uF cap under the chassis someplace.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/nfg1ce1fx1rrlh....jpg?raw=1]
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The under chassis cap stuffing and repro resistor changes where needed are completed. Still looks reasonably original with the exception of the one solen cap near the center of the chassis.
Here's as recieved (with some electrolytics tacked in and some of the wiring for that " mystery switch" that was on the back of the set:
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1wmsghc9z8dcxy....jpg?raw=1]
and the restored version:
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/nsvc4s0b91f70i....jpg?raw=1]
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Lookin good!! Cleaner and less cluttered! Can barely see the Solen cap.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
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Really nice looking Bob!
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Thx guys!
Starting on the top side of the chassis, the grid cap wires for the IF transformers needed to be replaced or sleeved as the insulation had worn away where they come through the IF shielding cans. Some cleaning inside the can wouldn't hurt either. I removed the 4 screws and two nuts on the can tops and pinched the 3 sets of spring clips (one at a time) that slot through the chassis to underside to then worked the can off the 3 transformer coils. It was relatively easy except that one of the ceramic pieces above the coils was rather tight inside the can and required a bit of prodding with a small wooden dowel to force it out. I opted to put a small section of heat shrink sleeve on the wires and after cleaning things up tried sliding the can back on.... 
That ceramic piece was just not going to slide back up into the can. I was able to put some threaded rod (6-32) into the screw holes of the ceramic so I would be able to work the ceramic piece back up into the can. That and some wire tacked onto the grid cap wire so I could thread it through the can allowed me to get it back together.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/dkaq9xkzozb4mz....jpg?raw=1]
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/omarnt3plxm3ss....jpg?raw=1]
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/v2e9j1t67m39f4....jpg?raw=1]
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vqv14x4jk48f1q....jpg?raw=1]
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1mzjnsvcei0q6m....jpg?raw=1]
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Clever! I like it. 
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Am now looking at the shadow meter. This set has one of the "older" versions. See Chuck's pages on servicing these things.
A look at mine and you can quickly see that the pilot lamp for the shadow meter is missing.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ahs2xoxok7isb8....jpg?raw=1]
The insides were relatively clean although the vane has some crystallization of some sort on it.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/02odvs5lmt6d0l....jpg?raw=1]
I started to try to take it off with a Q-tip and alcohol but quickly decided to leave well enough alone. I was getting cotton fibers onto it and since the vane repositioned to center very nicely I know the magnet is good. The coil ohmed out a about 500 ohms and a 9 volt battery across the coil deflected the vane all the way so that is working as well.
I'm will see if I can locate another pilot lamp mounting but if that does not work out, I do have a modern bayonet mount that I can probably MacGyver into place.
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Can you use this? pm me if so.
https://i.imgur.com/jvzT2iw.jpg
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I finally got to work on putting the shadowgraph back together thanks to KCMike.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/snp6zmzbk869o4....jpg?raw=1]
I also picked up an 18 chassis that had an output transformer on the speaker that would replace the half working one in this set...the fellow at Kutztown said it was working but after getting it home and checking...the field coil is good but the transformer is not... one side of the PushPull should be about 150 ohms but is 2Meg and the other is open...  That'll teach me to leave my DVM at home. The entire chassis was only $20 so no big deal.
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