05-27-2019, 04:43 PM
What kind of tricks can anyone give me to mask slight problems in cabinets the veneer is all there on a cabinet im working on but i notice dings everywhere and some raised grain.
|
dark stains to hide imperfections?
05-28-2019, 10:03 AM
Pics??
When my pals were reading comic books I was down in the basement in my dad's workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to figure out what all those squiggly meant. Circa 1966 Now I think I've got! Terry 
05-28-2019, 10:47 AM
Terry is right a picture is important in fact several.
That is because the extent and kind of damage can be remedied in many different ways. Some methods are more involved than others, generally, the more complex the method, the more invisible the repair. Some repairs require learning new skills, often multiple skills in the same method. For example: Veneer patching, shellac stick burning, dent and grain raising, grain filling, lacquer tinting and opaquer toning. Not to drive anyone away from the Phorum, there is a new fellow who has come to Antique Radio Forum, an auto re-finisher who has taken up cabinet repair/refinishing. His name is Fred Taylor. His work is outstanding and explains exactly how it is done with pictures. Folks are now contract him for cabinet finishing... https://antiqueradios.com/forums/search....1&sr=posts GL Chas Pliny the younger “nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat” 
05-28-2019, 10:54 AM
Fred Taylor is also a Phorum member, and has posted several of his beautiful refinish jobs here.
-- Ron Ramirez Ferdinand IN 
05-28-2019, 09:23 PM
veneer is cracked on the top it is thin and a bit chipped on the lower panel. I can't seem to get rid left over red paint neither acetone or paint stripper will not rid of it and my only solution is to sand it out.
05-28-2019, 10:20 PM
I'm very proud to see my fellow Kentuckian running barefoot in that last pic, as I am now also.
05-28-2019, 10:48 PM
Perhaps an over view would help decide. Sanding carefully so not to sand through the veneer, because a scraper was used staining may show compression marks. Sanding would also bring fresh wood to the surface. Carefully sand the entire radio as any overall staining would have a difference in color.
If the chip is at an edge with molding adjacent and the remaining red also next to a molding. The missing chip can be filled with Bondo or Min Wax filler. This would be an ugly blemish. But, because of the adjacent molding during the finish process, opaque toner is used. Rather than cutting a hard edge of toned molding v.s. tinted finish the toning is feathered gradually from the molding into the panel. Thus, obscuring the red and the leveling filler patch. Keep in mind, stain the wood a dark color and using transparent toner as a clear coat will also darken the piece. Best thing about lacquer is it can be removed with thinner if it does not look right or the finish fails from fish-eye or moisture haze. The cabinet is more like a blank canvas that can have its colors shifted in layers until the desired look is achieved. I suggest practice on pieces of scrap preferably some cheap Honduran backing board to get the feel of the techniques. Fortunately, all of the products, except the wood stain are in rattle can so a compressor and HVLP gun won't be needed. If that cannot be done then patching the veneer. That is tougher only because of grain matching. If still not possible to match then cover the entire surface with new veneer. Patch would still be needed to fill the space but the red would be completely covered. A new veneer gives one a chance to be creative and select different woods or a matched pattern. Certainly there are other alternatives, that is my escape... YMMV Chas Pliny the younger “nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat”
05-28-2019, 10:50 PM
He, he, I thought I saw toes...
Pliny the younger “nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat”
05-29-2019, 02:55 AM
I will do my best to refinish this cabinet even if it is my first i decided on a dark walnut stain and black lacquer trim i will use a stainable wood filler for any nail holes or chipped veneer. I am not up to applying new veneer or doing any major work that is above my intelligence and my skills.
At the end of the day i can say that is my cabinet restoring ability's and if the next owner doesn't care for it they can even redo it or paint it red. Before and after current progress.
05-29-2019, 11:07 AM
It already looks good. I don't think whatever red is left behind is going to matter after your stain and finish.
05-29-2019, 01:48 PM
The top and bottom pillar is going to be black lacquer thinking two coats of minwax stain and 1-2 coats of semi gloss clear def.
05-29-2019, 01:53 PM
" . . . 1-2 coats of semi gloss, . . . "
Good luck finding anything " semi ", . . . or more-difficult yet, satin finish. Seems ALL of it is glossy as glass now, no matter how they mark the can! I always preferred a satin finish on furniture or cabinetry.
05-30-2019, 10:14 AM
Jake(s),
The toning should not be black... It is a very dark brown, the difference is noticeable. Black will create a stark mechanical look, the brown a warmer inviting friendly appearance. Dark brown OPAQUE toner can be found in Mohawk, Behlin and others. A gloss lacquer finish can be rendered to satin by rubbing with powdered pumice and oil using a burlap pad. Same for a cabinet varnish finish... Pre-mixed semi-gloss or flat contain a flattening agent, usually silica. The silica will settle with time and required through mixing before use and mixing during use. Prolonged spraying of a rattle can will cause the temperature to drop in the can and the pressure. That effects the atomization and spray pattern, usually resulting in dribbles or splatters, unnoticed these dribbles can get onto the work. Ideally but $$, is multiple cans of the same product from the same lot are used. Ain't gonna happen, so a messy alternative is a container of warm water to place the can into so the temperature can rise and pressure return. The can will have to be toweled off so not to get water on the work Suggestion only as it is your radio. Chas Pliny the younger “nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat”
05-30-2019, 12:05 PM
This Kentucky Jake duly notes your suggestions bud. Thanks.
I agree with the dark brown being more-friendly, and more unified as well. I'm kinda wondering if this may also apply to my 39-6 C I (which is painted). Should it have dark accents? I don't think the specimen in the gallery is reliable. We know it isn't supposed to be blue.
05-30-2019, 04:44 PM
It isn't blue! Is something wrong with your monitor?
The factory image of a 39-6CI does show a narrower band of black, however. If I get energetic enough I'll post an example. -- Ron Ramirez Ferdinand IN
« Next Oldest | Next Newest »
Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s) |
