08-28-2019, 05:45 PM
Yesterday, I pulled the chassis out of the cabinet.
Turning it upside down, I wasn't sure what I would find...
As you can see, most - not all, but most - of the original paper capacitors have been replaced with new yellow film caps. The quality of the cap replacements is not quite to my liking, but I may leave most if not all of them alone.
There are some issues I will need to address, though:
I don't care for how the original twist-lock electrolytic was replaced by individual electrolytics with some masking tape wrapped around them. These will be replaced with another twist-lock unit. I considered buying a new twist-lock from AES, but have since decided to open up a twist-lock from the junkpile and restuff it with new Nichicon electrolytics.
Left side of chassis, looking at the bottom: No less than seven original paper capacitors which were not replaced. I will replace them. Since the vast majority of capacitors were replaced with yellow film and the originals discarded, I will not restuff these either.
Back of chassis under speaker terminals: Two more original paper capacitors. One of those, .05 uF, is connected between one side of the line and ground!
It will be replaced with a new .01 uF X-Y safety cap. The other will be replaced with a new .047 uF yellow film capacitor.
Additionally, I noticed that R54, which is supposed to be 4K at 5 watts, was replaced with a 10K, 10W unit. That will reduce the B+ to the screen grids of the front end tubes as well as the first and second IF amplifiers. It will be replaced with a new 4K, 10 watt resistor which I just happen to have on hand.
Also, it appears to have its original rubber power cord which is cracking. It will receive a brand new black power cord.
All of the tubes are good save two: the 6K8GT which is marginal, and the 0C3 voltage regulator tube which my tester won't test. Its base is very loose so I'll just replace it anyway.
Turning it upside down, I wasn't sure what I would find...
As you can see, most - not all, but most - of the original paper capacitors have been replaced with new yellow film caps. The quality of the cap replacements is not quite to my liking, but I may leave most if not all of them alone.
There are some issues I will need to address, though:
I don't care for how the original twist-lock electrolytic was replaced by individual electrolytics with some masking tape wrapped around them. These will be replaced with another twist-lock unit. I considered buying a new twist-lock from AES, but have since decided to open up a twist-lock from the junkpile and restuff it with new Nichicon electrolytics.
Left side of chassis, looking at the bottom: No less than seven original paper capacitors which were not replaced. I will replace them. Since the vast majority of capacitors were replaced with yellow film and the originals discarded, I will not restuff these either.
Back of chassis under speaker terminals: Two more original paper capacitors. One of those, .05 uF, is connected between one side of the line and ground!
It will be replaced with a new .01 uF X-Y safety cap. The other will be replaced with a new .047 uF yellow film capacitor.Additionally, I noticed that R54, which is supposed to be 4K at 5 watts, was replaced with a 10K, 10W unit. That will reduce the B+ to the screen grids of the front end tubes as well as the first and second IF amplifiers. It will be replaced with a new 4K, 10 watt resistor which I just happen to have on hand.
Also, it appears to have its original rubber power cord which is cracking. It will receive a brand new black power cord.
All of the tubes are good save two: the 6K8GT which is marginal, and the 0C3 voltage regulator tube which my tester won't test. Its base is very loose so I'll just replace it anyway.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
