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Philco 116B No radio reception
#1

Hello everyone, I finally got my Oscillator Adjustment Padders Redone (including replacing the broken mica capacitor).

Anyways I was testing my work and for some reason I'm not getting any sort of reception on the radio on any of the bands, not even the AM Band, I was even trying my Signal Generator and even that wasn't coming through on the radio. 

Any ideas as to what could be wrong with this thing?
#2

Is the oscillator working?
#3

I don't know, I subbed out some of the tubes including the Oscillator tube and its doesn't seem to be doing anything, and I'm not sure how to tell whether or not the oscillator is working.

Also all I'm getting from this radio right now is a low pitched buzzing noise (no its not 60 Hz Hum, as I know difference between that and the buzzing noise I'm hearing) the buzzing noise I'm hearing is affected by the volume control and the tone control switch.
#4

Do you have the alignment procedure to follow?

Jack of all trades, master of none. I know just enough to be dangerous  Icon_lol
#5

Yes I have the alignment procedures to follow, and I figured out that the oscillator is running but way off from where it should be as I was able to hook my signal generator up to the antenna jack on the back of my radio and then run a 375 kHz signal into the radio in the longwave mode and it was picking up the signal loud and clear. I was able to in Broadcast (AM Band) mode get a 1600 kHz signal through the Antenna jack on the back of the radio by adjusting the Broadcast Oscillator, Antenna and R.F. adjustments which were way off.

I'm currently attempting to redo the IF Adjustment but I can't get the 460 kHz IF Frequency to come through very loud through the grid cap of the 1st Detector Tube on this unit, its only coming through barely audible.

Also I will definitely need a new power switch assembly for my radio as my power switch is permanently stuck in the on position, no amount of beating on the switch knob or hitting the back of the switch will shut the switch off.
#6

Something like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Portfolio-1-42-...lsrc=aw.ds It's used in conjunction with flat zip cord (not a round cord). Or you could send Mark $30.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#7

Or you could use one of these switches :
[attachment=22541]
Icon_crazy Icon_crazy Icon_crazy
#8

Terry, I've tried talking to Mark about a switch for my radio but he said he didn't know if he had a switch like I needed for my radio, he had asked me for a picture of the switch assembly that my radio used and I sent him a picture of the switch assembly on the back of my volume control on my radio and he never got back to me as to whether or not he had the switch I needed, and I would prefer to keep this radio looking and working as original as possible so no inline switches on this radio would be preferred method to go with this radio.
#9

The $30 what I paid last time for the tapped volume control w/the off-on sw.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#10

Terry, Like I said I tried talking to Mark about getting a switch, all I got from him was a message back asking me to send him a picture of the switch on my radio which I did, and I never heard back from him about whether or not he had a switch that I could use.

Also how do you properly attach the ground wire for the electrolytic cans when you restuff them? I have the 8 MFD 450 VDC and 10 MFD 50 VDC dual section can cap gutted and the new caps you sent me installed into the bakelite base of the old can cap but I'm not sure how to attach the negative leads to the old cap's case so I can use the case as the negative terminal like it was originally.
#11

I just attache a wire to the - and run it  out of the can and hook it to where it needs to go on chassis ( be that the chassis or another point )
#12

Should be the black terminal on #101 is at chassis ground. Internally it's connected to the + side 10mfd @50v. The outside of the capacitor (metal part) is not at chassis ground but is connect to the hv center tap of the power transformer (B-).

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#13

Quote:Should be the black terminal on #101 is at chassis ground. Internally it's connected to the + side 10mfd @50v. The outside of the capacitor (metal part) is not at chassis ground but is connect to the hv center tap of the power transformer (B-).


You mean the Silver terminal? Because on mine there's a Red Terminal and a Silver Terminal But no Black Terminal.

And that still doesn't tell me how to run the negative leads of the new capacitors.
#14

Quote:I just attache a wire to the - and run it  out of the can and hook it to where it needs to go on chassis ( be that the chassis or another point )


Thanks Simplex, I'll give that a try, my capacitor actually has a hole on the top of it would that be an ok spot to run the negative lead wire out of?
#15

might look silly but no harm. just run it out the bottom with the rest.




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