03-19-2023, 07:42 AM
Hi Bob,
I will have to research to see if I have actual instructions from a manual, but I believethe following procedure should work well:
Some magnetic horn speakers have a "volume control" that allows the user to move the coil and magnet assembly closer to or further away from the metal diaphragm. The knob on the top of your speaker base assembly is likely the volume control. Move the coil as close as possible, almost to rattling caused by the diaphragm hitting the poles of the magnet. Then connect speaker, reverse polarity and play again. the polarity that causes the most rattling is the correct polarity. You can fine tune till it rattles with only 1 polarity. That is the correct polarity. Upon determining the correct polarity, readjust the "volume control" on the speaker to loudest volume without rattling. If there is no volume control adjustment (gap adjustment), the polarity that gives the loudest sound is the correct polarity.
Your electromagnet assembly may be marked with a + sign or a red dot. Otherwise the existing cable may have a conductor with a red stripe in the cloth insulation. That will be the connection to the battery.
In some cases the magnet will have completely lost its strength. These are close to or over 100 years old and were not very High Tech to begin with (Although yours looks much more robust than other horn speaker magnets). I have not had to try to re-magnetize one, but one can try. Some people merely add a modern pill-sized neodymium magnet to each end of the "horseshoe".
BTW, I have an A-K 32 that I have to get around to fixing (although it may be good to go right off the bat as the pulleys and belts on this are good). My collection includes an A-K 10C, 20, 20C, 30, 32, 35 (2), 36 and 40. I have a Crosley 601 also, but the tuning caps were made of pot metal, so thay are a total basket case. When I get around to it, I will fit with A-K caps but I need more pulleys and belts, as my 30 and both 35s are missing these.
I will have to research to see if I have actual instructions from a manual, but I believethe following procedure should work well:
Some magnetic horn speakers have a "volume control" that allows the user to move the coil and magnet assembly closer to or further away from the metal diaphragm. The knob on the top of your speaker base assembly is likely the volume control. Move the coil as close as possible, almost to rattling caused by the diaphragm hitting the poles of the magnet. Then connect speaker, reverse polarity and play again. the polarity that causes the most rattling is the correct polarity. You can fine tune till it rattles with only 1 polarity. That is the correct polarity. Upon determining the correct polarity, readjust the "volume control" on the speaker to loudest volume without rattling. If there is no volume control adjustment (gap adjustment), the polarity that gives the loudest sound is the correct polarity.
Your electromagnet assembly may be marked with a + sign or a red dot. Otherwise the existing cable may have a conductor with a red stripe in the cloth insulation. That will be the connection to the battery.
In some cases the magnet will have completely lost its strength. These are close to or over 100 years old and were not very High Tech to begin with (Although yours looks much more robust than other horn speaker magnets). I have not had to try to re-magnetize one, but one can try. Some people merely add a modern pill-sized neodymium magnet to each end of the "horseshoe".
BTW, I have an A-K 32 that I have to get around to fixing (although it may be good to go right off the bat as the pulleys and belts on this are good). My collection includes an A-K 10C, 20, 20C, 30, 32, 35 (2), 36 and 40. I have a Crosley 601 also, but the tuning caps were made of pot metal, so thay are a total basket case. When I get around to it, I will fit with A-K caps but I need more pulleys and belts, as my 30 and both 35s are missing these.
"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
Best Regards,
MrFixr55
