Best guess is that the fish paper is stuck to the inside of the can and inside edge of the fish paper has curled under the trimmers. If you have something like long feeler gauge, there's not much room between the paper and coil spacers so it need to be thin you can take it and slip it between the can and paper to free it up. Paper and coils should come out together. If it really stuck fast I'd unsolder the grid cap and shrink tube the wire. Clean the top and put it back together.
GL
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Yep that right there is the voice of experience folks! It was the paper insulation sleeve that had glued itself to the can. I used a stiff piece of cardboard to break it loose. Thanks Terry!
While on that subject, what's a good substitute to re-wrap the coils with before I install the cans back into the chassis?
Quote: Yep that right there is the voice of experience folks!
Terry is a Wiz and there some great minds here on this forum that reminds me guys I will order myself so more Fish paper too it is really handy .
KI5OMM, I need to pull one my cans off the chassis of my Philco 38-10T too.
Sincerely Richard
(This post was last modified: 10-27-2023, 11:09 PM by radiorich.)
I need a bit of help. On the parts list there is a twin bakelite .0001 mfd capacitor block which is part number 39.
I forgot to order these and I have already heated and removed the originals from the block. I have on hand a couple of 100pf disc capacitors, but they are only rated for 50 volts. I don't think it would matter that much in this instance, but if someone smarter than me could check the schematic I would very much appreciate it!
Thanks! - Bud -KI5OMM
I think you are correct. The most voltage they are going to see is whatever the avc voltage is, maybe 35-40vdc. If it's more than 50 the good news is that you'll be the first to know![Image: https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/sm...on_lol.gif]
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Oh my poor eyes after staring at the tiny schematic. Does anyone know if a larger schematic that is a bit clearer can be found? I don't mind paying for it, but the schematic on the pdf's does not enlarge well.
I am working off that particular schematic Ron. Thanks for having it available!
I am facing a major decision here. This particular chassis has been pretty heavily modified in the past. Resistors are different, capacitors are different and a lot of the wiring has been modified also. This, along with the fact that a lot of the existing wiring is in really bad shape is making things exceedingly difficult for me to try and figure out what is what on the actual radio vs. what should be according to the schematic.
My gut instinct is telling me to take everything out and just rewire the radio from scratch. To my inexperienced eyes, this is a pretty complicated schematic - but it's doable. As I wire a component, I can highlight it on the schematic and move along.
What has me completely stumped is the rotary switch positions and wiring up the coils to the proper switch terminals. Lastly, on the antenna coils, I do not know which coils is AM - Police - Shortwave. The top coil is largest, so I assume that is AM? The middle coil is SW? The bottom short coil is Police? I have attached a photo.
Finally is there a standard way to identify the terminals on the bottom of the coil using an ohm meter? Is there a diagram someplace from Philco that shows this?
Any help and advice is needed and most welcome!
Thanks folks!
What are you using to view it? On my end, I have no problem viewing it in a browser window, and I can zoom it out to 800%, possibly larger, without significant loss of detail. Granted, I do have a 34 inch ultra widescreen monitor (3440 x 1440 pixel resolution), but even on the computer I keep at my workbench (which has a 27 inch monitor), I have no trouble viewing and zooming in on the Philcoradio.com Library schematics.
I may see about getting the prints enlarged as it would be a big help - especially the parts listing with the circled part number.
Anyhow today was a better day as I woke up with a fresh outlook on the task. I just cut out all of the previous repairs and owner modified crap and now the factory wiring is beginning to make some sense. I actually found no less than three capacitors soldered together in parallel apparently because the previous owner did not have the correct values on hand....
My de-soldering gun got a good workout today and it looks like I will be restuffing the electrolytic cans tomorrow. I may even stuff a dollar bill inside one like Buzz did in one of his videos! LOL
Hello KI5OMM,
that sounds like a plan I have done just that on my last complete rewire and I currently have like 3 radios that are waiting for me to start the rewire process .
Today I re-stuffed the #52 electrolytic can. I cut the can open near the base and drained some 87 year old liquid out. I removed the tin plate coil inside and discarded it. A quick dunk in the ultrasonic cleaner bath and the can was sparkling clean. I soldered lugs on each end of the new capacitor after carefully measuring their positions. I drilled holes in the cap and stem to accept some small screws. After assembling everything back together I re-installed the can back into the chassis.
I removed the tin plate coil inside and discarded it. A quick dunk in the ultrasonic cleaner bath and the can was sparkling clean. I soldered lugs on each end of the new capacitor after carefully measuring their positions. I drilled holes in the cap and stem to accept some small screws. After assembling everything back together I re-installed the can back into the chassis.