Philco 37-116X What's The Price Point?
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(03-24-2012, 04:58 PM)LASJayhawk Wrote: Some guy on the barking dog forum  Had a picture of a 37 or 38 he did. He unbolted the tuning dial and took all the screws out of all 4 of the sub chassis. thing folded up like a rubics cube. Got to everything without unsoldering anything from the 4 sub chassis.
You can do that on some of the lesser models. But, I can see no way on the 37-116. Wires come in from 3 dirrections and even thought they are not rubber coated, they can be a little brittle, so best not to twist them any more than needed. Really it only took a few minuts to take it out and not much more to put it back. You just have to make sure that everything is back where it started.
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Gene! Where are you located? Have you seen this thread?
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=4480
FREE 37-116X De Luxe...you pick up.
(03-24-2012, 04:58 PM)LASJayhawk Wrote: Some guy on the barking dog forum ...
Careful, LASJayhawk...I got yelled at the last time I referred to it as the Alternative Radio Forum...
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Ron Ramirez
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(03-24-2012, 07:34 PM)Phlogiston Wrote: (03-24-2012, 04:58 PM)LASJayhawk Wrote: Some guy on the barking dog forum Had a picture of a 37 or 38 he did. He unbolted the tuning dial and took all the screws out of all 4 of the sub chassis. thing folded up like a rubics cube. Got to everything without unsoldering anything from the 4 sub chassis.
You can do that on some of the lesser models. But, I can see no way on the 37-116. Wires come in from 3 dirrections and even thought they are not rubber coated, they can be a little brittle, so best not to twist them any more than needed. Really it only took a few minuts to take it out and not much more to put it back. You just have to make sure that everything is back where it started.
I wish you were closer to me.
If you could show me how to do this disassembly in a few minutes,I would certainly like to learn it from you.
I could even pay you for your time.
Mine is a 38-116,which I assume is basically the same chassis?
murf
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What it really gets down to is what it's worth to you. A 37-116 in good working condition will be one of the best sounding and recieving sets you have. I paid two hundred for mine and drove two hours to pick it and two other radios (41-220 and a 38-5) up.
The 37-116 was in nice shape with knobs, but missing one (?) acoustic clarifier.
I had missed other 37/38-116s in the past. It was worth it to me.
If it's worth it to you, then go and get it.
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(03-24-2012, 11:25 PM)TA Forbes Wrote: What it really gets down to is what it's worth to you. A 37-116 in good working condition will be one of the best sounding and recieving sets you have. I paid two hundred for mine and drove two hours to pick it and two other radios (41-220 and a 38-5) up.
The 37-116 was in nice shape with knobs, but missing one (?) acoustic clarifier.
I had missed other 37/38-116s in the past. It was worth it to me.
If it's worth it to you, then go and get it.
My concern with this set isn't the price as much as the squirley behavior of it's current owner. If the price was $195 OBO, fine, you dicker back and fourth and arrive at a price you can both agree to. But posting something at $195 and then playing a hustle about someone (who had no intention of buying it themselves) telling him it was priced too low, and that he was going to jack it up to $225, sets off alarms. Why didn't this so called "expert" suggest that he locate a set of knobs for it? If he couldn't be bothered dealing with a minor issue, like missing knobs, that is right in front of your face and would make it more sellable, what else is missing or wrong with this set that we don't know about? The first thing I think of when a set has no knobs is that it is some sort of neglected old beater.
Regards
Arran
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WOW! That was really nice of Bruce to offer those sets!! Ron, I am in New Hampshire and also too late for the 116, but it looks like it found a good home.
In the pictures the guy sent me of the radio, he has a price tage on the front of the set that says $295. He made a point of mentioning that it was in the pictures when I spoke to him on the phone. Evidently that was his original price and I think he put it in a yard sale. He says he brought the 116 from Exeter, NH out of a house clean-up from the original owner. My major concern was seeing the metal straps holding the chassis in. To me that, with the missing knobs, looks like someone didn' know what they were doing or lost the original bolts/screws and I have no idea what the underside of that chassis looks like.
That being said, Phlogiston, I checked on those tubes and found no where to even get them for $60..........closer to $80. Maybe this just wasn't meant to be. And as you pointed out, being a relative newbie probably more than I can handle at this time.
TA Forbes, I agree with Arran, I don't care for the type of tactics in play. Posting a price and then saying its' too cheap doesn't make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. There are still a lot of radios out there, I am sure there is one with my name on it!
Gene
(This post was last modified: 03-25-2012, 02:56 PM by Gene Pederson.)
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Hello, Gene: well, that's my point. It wasn't worth it to you. I also agree with Arran with respect to the seller. What I was unable to convey to you was that what it is worth to you is the bottom line.
FYI the 37-116 is a floating chassis that does not use screws to secure it to the cabinet. This is why you see some interesting mounts installed by the set's owner.
With respect to the 6B4G tubes, the last time I checked Bob Dobrush' website findatube.com the new 6B4Gs were selling for 35.00 new and 18.00 used. Bob is a good guy to go to for tubes.
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Agree with Tom. I paid over $400 for a 37-116 standard model. It was in S Mass so it was about 5hrs each way to go get it. I wanted it! They don't show up very often at all. I do have a 37-116 deluxe I got back in to 1980's for $35 at auction. But those days are gone!
Call me stupid
Terry[/font]
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I appreciate all the input from you guys. Probably the problem lies with me. TAForbes, you are correct....bottom line is I don't want the set bad enough. I didn't miss your point, I happen to be one of those people who doesn't like being told what a great bargain I am getting, which is how this guy came across. I spoke to both he and his wife at different times on the phone. She was extremely polite and very helpful. Just the tone of his voice didn't set me up well. So you are correct I didn't want the 116 bad enough to deal with the seller. Sometimes being a stubborn Norwegian has its drawbacks.
Gene
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Here is a pic of the chassis in the 116x. Why does it appear to have TWO tube sockets on top of the power transformer? The tube layout diagram only shows one. Could this be a replacement transformer?
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...hassis.jpg]
Gene
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Must be a replacement. The original had only one tube socket on top of the transformer.
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Ron Ramirez
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Looks to be one out of a 50's B/W TV. Should be pretty strapping with two 5U4's good for 500ma of B+
Terry
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Depends on how "radio rich" your Area is. If you like 116s ( & who doesn't ? ) then like Tom says, what's it worth to you, if you like it buy it.
I'd be a little leery of a silly seller  as Arran states, but after all its one of Philco's Best for 37 & 38 "high fidelity."
Here's a posting from a friend of mine & Ron's, for those of you who might attempt to try restoring the chassis that shows, with pics, how to remove the tuning chassis WITHOUT disconnecting all of the 13 wires.
http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=132122
John also has another post with some additional info I'll try to find & add to this thread soon. Found it, same 3 pictures, so I'll just add the additional text, quote;
"Congrats. This is one of the best playing radios you can find without spending thousands of dollars.
The 1937 and 38 Philco chassis are built in sections. They are built in such a fashion that by simply taking the sections apart you can get to every old capacitor in that chassis. And NO You do NOT need to unwire it. Some may try to tell you to just unwire 13 wires and you can have all the sections apart. Thats a waste of time and provides 13 possible errors. Other than taking the whole dial assembly off.. and unwiring a couple wires to that dial assembly. The rest is simply an erector set dis-assembly and re-assembly process. It takes about 10 minutes to have this whole chassis apart for working on it and maybe 15 minutes to put it back together again. The only tool required is a 1/4" Nutdriver. So... don't let the following pictures scare you... it really is a whole lot simpler than it looks in the pictures. Pictures are of a 4 sectional 37-116 Philco chassis apart for restoration. Don't loose the little clip at the rear of the long volume control shaft.
John k9uwa"
Hope this helps.
A barking dog "Arf Arf" from a "Alternative Radio Forum"   
Lloyd
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Feeling foolish, just last minutes when asking. Never asking, being foolish last forever.
(This post was last modified: 04-04-2012, 02:06 PM by CrumblingWires.)
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(04-04-2012, 01:48 PM)CrumblingWires Wrote: Depends on how "radio rich" your Area is. If you like 116s ( & who doesn't ?) then like Tom says, what's it worth to you, if you like it buy it.
I'd be a little leery of a silly seller as Arran states, but after all its one of Philco's Best for 37 & 38 "high fidelity."
Here's a posting from a friend of mine & Ron's, for those of you who might attempt to try restoring the chassis that shows, with pics, how to remove the tuning chassis WITHOUT disconnecting all of the 13 wires.
http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=132122
John also has another post with some additional info I'll try to find & add to this thread soon. Found it, same 3 pictures, so I'll just add the additional text, quote;
"Congrats. This is one of the best playing radios you can find without spending thousands of dollars.
The 1937 and 38 Philco chassis are built in sections. They are built in such a fashion that by simply taking the sections apart you can get to every old capacitor in that chassis. And NO You do NOT need to unwire it. Some may try to tell you to just unwire 13 wires and you can have all the sections apart. Thats a waste of time and provides 13 possible errors. Other than taking the whole dial assembly off.. and unwiring a couple wires to that dial assembly. The rest is simply an erector set dis-assembly and re-assembly process. It takes about 10 minutes to have this whole chassis apart for working on it and maybe 15 minutes to put it back together again. The only tool required is a 1/4" Nutdriver. So... don't let the following pictures scare you... it really is a whole lot simpler than it looks in the pictures. Pictures are of a 4 sectional 37-116 Philco chassis apart for restoration. Don't loose the little clip at the rear of the long volume control shaft.
John k9uwa"
Hope this helps.
A barking dog "Arf Arf" from a "Alternative Radio Forum"
Lloyd
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Feeling foolish, just last minutes when asking. Never asking, being foolish last forever.
Thanks for the great info John.
Will give it a try when I get that far.
murf
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