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Growing up quick...with a 38-690xx Pics added.
05-31-2012, 11:34 PM
Good job Frank! Straightening out that lytic could not have been fun! I have had a couple with dents in them and found that turning down a dowel to the right side and lubing it with a little grease, allowed me to tap it down inside and did a great job of taking out the dents. Keep up the good work and post some pictures.
Jerry A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
06-01-2012, 01:58 AM
Being a metal/wood fabricator helps a bit. I am also a great improvisor. You should see the custom bracket I fabbed up for my father's 440 Hemi conversion engine (Stage 5 aluminum heads convert 440 wedge to hemi). It holds the alternator, power steering pump and AC compressor. I used a 1/2' drive socket, the exact size escapes me, and a body hammer to work out the dents in the lytic can. Just a shadow is all that remains. I will post some pics as soon as I can. Just about done with the re-stuffing as far as the RF chassis is concerned. Dad is doing the power/amp chassis. Its his first solo project! What a radio to learn on. The amp chassis is pretty straight forward though and has plenty of room to work in as well. He is doing fine. Thanks for the responses guys!
08-26-2012, 12:33 PM
Don't worry guys and girls I am still here and still working away on the big Philco. My job has been taking a lot of my time recently but I have managed to finish the wax cap re-stuffing, clean both chassis, and restore the dial lamp holders. Removed the magnetic tuning switch assembly after finding the shaft rust-siezed in place. Drilled out the rivets and disassembled the switch completely. 3 days of soaking in penetrant and the shaft finally came out. Cleaned everything then reassembled the switch with 4/40 nuts and bolts. Works great now. I checked the failure-prone "ears" inside the switch and found them correct and solid. A few more lytic cans to deal with along with some wiring issues and the chassis will be done. I think I have an issue with my woofer though. It may be rubbing a little. Could just be dust. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
08-29-2012, 01:38 AM
Thanks for keeping us posted with your progress. Keep the pictures coming. It's great for me to learn as I watch your progress. Tom
10-27-2012, 02:45 AM
Here is how the amp/power supply of badwaxcaps' 38-690 looks now:
[Image: http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k420/...0001-4.jpg] -- Ron Ramirez Ferdinand IN 
10-28-2012, 06:53 PM
That is some real fine looking work!!! Great job!!!
Gene
10-28-2012, 09:06 PM
Thanks for the kind words guys. The RF chassis is just about done as well. I am short a couple tubes so I wont be able to test just yet. Soon I hope. Right now I'm just hoping Sandy does not wipe us out. More updates to come.
11-17-2012, 12:17 AM
Well the moment of truth came this afternoon. I set everything up on the test bench and turned the variac knob. Unfortunately all I got was silence then a little bit of hum. I know all the tubes are good and the transformers have no open windings. I want to check voltages but can't find a voltage table in my papers anywhere. If anyone has one please let me know.
11-17-2012, 12:40 PM
Should be able to tell which chassis is dropping the ball, the tuner or the amp. Judging from former posts, looks like you have done excellent restoration work. So it's probably something small. As for voltages, take a look in the tube manual to see if what you have is reasonble.
I would work backwards from the speaker to the antenna after checking the powere supply dividers; I think that's what most of us do it.
11-17-2012, 04:58 PM
How would one go about injecting signal into this set? Is it possible to add an aux input jack to this set? I found the .25A fuse on the output transformer blown. I replaced it and re-tested but got the same result. I will research my tubes in the manual to see if my voltages are in the ballpark.
12-13-2012, 06:34 AM
Hi Frank,
Didn't see your question till now. Try putting an audio signal on pin 5 of the 6F6 driver tube. Both the 6F6 and 6L6 use the same pin connections. The important voltages are on pins 3 and 4 both should be around 300v. Pin 5 on the 6F6 should be -15v or so and on the 6L6's -25v. GL Terry
12-19-2012, 09:45 PM
Frank, you haven't posted in a few days. I might suggest a touch of the finger to the center tap of the volume control to see if the audio amp is working. Love that induced hum.
Jerry A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
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