philco 48-214 code 125 Cap ?
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Hello
I have a philco 48-214 code 125. I am in the possess of replacing the paper caps and ran across this. There is a .2mf (C304) with 7 turns of about 22 gauge insulated wire on the one end. The instruction (rider page 18-40) describes this cap my question is can I replace it with a new cap and leave off the turns off or should I leave it alone it measures .25mf ( cap could go bad later on?)
Eric
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use a new .22 mfd 600 volt mylar. The wire is no longer needed.
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You can do it either way, sometimes Philco used a proper coil form for that choke and sometimes they wrapped it around the cardboard body of the old capaicitor. It've melted the old unit apart and installed the new unit inside, I'me not sure what it actually does but since there is so much power line noise these days I figured I should leave it there.
Regards
Arran
(This post was last modified: 05-20-2012, 08:18 PM by Arran.)
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Well the radio has been progressing and now plays great I have to this point using a variac to turn it on, now the problem is that it instantly blows the dial lamp a (6.3v .15a) and then I tried a .25a and it still blows all I had left was a #55 rated 6.3v .4a it turns on but it is extremely bright and then fades to normal. I put a clamp on on the dial lead and measured 1.2a in rush I would stay with this but it isn't right and would have to modify the dial face to accept the shape of the lamp. I checked the voltages per the inst and they seem ok to me here they are on the 35Y4.
1 123vac
2 120vac
3 -6
4 120vac
5 +109
6 0
7 +133
8 90vac
123vac Line
What am I missing?
Eric
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Eric,
Don't you know by now that it does not matter what wattage a lamp pr bulb is? It does not matter what it is rated for: it will take exactly the current it needs as long as it is 6.3V that you give it, and if it is more wattage then it will keep blowing, until it blows the transformer. In your case there is no transformer.
You obviously give it more than 6.3V.
The bulb uses part of filament voltage, about 1/5th, 5 to 7v.
Measure the volts across the bulb, see what it is. From your voltages it should be 3V.
If it is, the inrush through the C11 may be a problem; see if it is what ir should be, a 40nF. Measure it. Maybe you recapped it wrong.
Also, though not likely, see if the bulb connected to pin8 i/o pin1; won't affect the rectifier but will low the bulb.
(This post was last modified: 05-23-2012, 08:01 PM by morzh.)
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One of two things bad C11 or 35Y4. All your tube check with the diagram? no 7's where there should be a 14?
Terry
What the heck is this nF stuff???
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Yes , one of the tubes dropping low voltage also may do this, though the drop would get distributed. I think the C11 because the radio plays, though all is possible.
BTW, nF is nanofarads. 
More, though again not too likely: see if C13A is what it should be and not , say, 300uF.
If I did not know the radio plays, I'd say make sure the filament and the cathode are not shorted, but then the rectifier wouldn't work, and it obviously does, since it plays.
PS. Did not know Philco made "all-american fives".
(This post was last modified: 05-23-2012, 08:34 PM by morzh.)
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If the set uses a 35Y4, a 35Z5, or a 35W4 tube then it likely has one of two things wrong:
(1) The rectifier tube heater is open between the pilot light tap and one end of the tube heater.
(2 The resistor paralleled with the pilot light is open circuit or blown. With some tubes like the 35Y4 it may or may not have a resistor paralleled with the pilot light depending on the amperage of the pilot light bulb used.
Regards
Arran
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Open filament is easy to check. If your bulb is blown, ot you remove it, does the radio keep playing and the rectifier glowing? If yes, that will exclude the open filament.
The initial statement says "The radio plays great".
(This post was last modified: 05-24-2012, 08:31 AM by morzh.)
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Morzh
C11 is a new .04 (rechecked) and the voltage across the bulb after that inrush is 2.7v and C13A is a 33mf electrolytic 160v. But your last post is the one that doesn't check out!! when I take out the bulb the 35y goes dark unfortunately I have several 35Z's but none a Loctial so I will see about getting one. Thanks all
Eric
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If you have trouble finding a spare, merely use only the main section of the rectifier filament, and use a neon bulb and appropriate resistor fo the pilot light.
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Got the 35Y4 today and plugged it in and the radio plays and the #44 light lights and doesn't blow. Thanks for everyone input
Eric
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I'll bet if you measure the resistance of three heater pins you'll fine that half of the heater is open. The plot lamp was acting as the other half.
Terry
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Liking safe bets, aren'we.... 
(This post was last modified: 05-30-2012, 07:26 PM by morzh.)
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