04-16-2013, 10:23 PM
As morzh pointed out previously #40 on the schematic shows 3 caps (1,1,2ufd) in one can. The actual can has 4 leads coming off the front and is bolted or grounded to the chassis on the back.
Off the 'Green' tab are 2 of the 4 leads, 1 going to the wire wound resistor (#49) and the other to the speaker's field coil this is for one of the 1-ufd caps.
Off the 'Red' tab there is 1 lead going only to the plate load for tube 75.
The final lead is connected directly to the .1 Meg resistor #39.
Obviously I couldn't hook up the three caps this same way since the 2ufd is (according to the schematics) to be T-up with R61/R62 and none of these 4 leads went anywhere near R61/R62. I hate the idea of NOT hooking this thing up the way it was originally, especially since it makes it infinitely more difficult to trouble shoot, but when I tried doing it the same way as in my pictures, the 32K resister melted. So, I decided to trust the schematics (and also, since I didn't actually cut open the electrolytic cap to see the connections inside) and re-hooked up these three caps the way morzh suggested.
I left the radio on for about 4 hours, no smoke, no melted wires, no problems. However, I had my Ohm-meter hooked to the 32K resistor and it was reading 17K Ohms??? Is that normal? I thought the reason was because I didn't actually calculate what the Ohms going through the circuit should be, but the radio was turned off and also each lead was directly on either side of the resistor... so I don't know.
I just don't get how it could read 33K when it was OUT of the radio (I did measure it prior since the last one 'Chernobyl-ed' on me), but while IN the radio (with radio turned off) how could this resistor read anything other than 33K? I thought the multimeter sent the signal down one lead-through-the-resistor-and-back-to-the-other-lead completing the circuit? My only thought would be residual voltage from the capacitors leaking out power, but I thought that was a bit of a stretch.
Anyways, I think my Sig Generator is on the fritz or broken because nothing happened when I hooked it up. I'm going to check on that this week. There is a guy here in Ann Arbor who can help me, so I'll do that. That's all for now. Thanks again morzh, Jerry, and Ron and everyone else who's gotten me this far, couldn't have done it without you guys, thanks again.
Off the 'Green' tab are 2 of the 4 leads, 1 going to the wire wound resistor (#49) and the other to the speaker's field coil this is for one of the 1-ufd caps.
Off the 'Red' tab there is 1 lead going only to the plate load for tube 75.
The final lead is connected directly to the .1 Meg resistor #39.
Obviously I couldn't hook up the three caps this same way since the 2ufd is (according to the schematics) to be T-up with R61/R62 and none of these 4 leads went anywhere near R61/R62. I hate the idea of NOT hooking this thing up the way it was originally, especially since it makes it infinitely more difficult to trouble shoot, but when I tried doing it the same way as in my pictures, the 32K resister melted. So, I decided to trust the schematics (and also, since I didn't actually cut open the electrolytic cap to see the connections inside) and re-hooked up these three caps the way morzh suggested.
I left the radio on for about 4 hours, no smoke, no melted wires, no problems. However, I had my Ohm-meter hooked to the 32K resistor and it was reading 17K Ohms??? Is that normal? I thought the reason was because I didn't actually calculate what the Ohms going through the circuit should be, but the radio was turned off and also each lead was directly on either side of the resistor... so I don't know.
I just don't get how it could read 33K when it was OUT of the radio (I did measure it prior since the last one 'Chernobyl-ed' on me), but while IN the radio (with radio turned off) how could this resistor read anything other than 33K? I thought the multimeter sent the signal down one lead-through-the-resistor-and-back-to-the-other-lead completing the circuit? My only thought would be residual voltage from the capacitors leaking out power, but I thought that was a bit of a stretch.
Anyways, I think my Sig Generator is on the fritz or broken because nothing happened when I hooked it up. I'm going to check on that this week. There is a guy here in Ann Arbor who can help me, so I'll do that. That's all for now. Thanks again morzh, Jerry, and Ron and everyone else who's gotten me this far, couldn't have done it without you guys, thanks again.
