[ccomer1955]

First of all, its this one worth bringing back?

The front panel has plywood base issues that might be making the veneer issues worse. I removed, cleaned, and reglued the front veneer, but can't get the gap to close completely...maybe less than a 1/16" gap left.The picture is a "before" shot.

   
   

The side veneer is simply gone on one side. I can easily replace the piece, but the veneer on the arched back part is supposed to be one piece. What would you do: patch in a new section there or replace the whole veneer for the body of the cabinet?

   

Also, is the toner a dark walnut or a brown walnut? or something else. 

[Arran]

 I would replace the whole top/sides, or at least the top two layers of it. Anything is repairable given enough time, and or money, usually when veneer cracks like that it means you have dampen it a bit first to get it to expand to fill the gap before gluing it down. As for the front panel, or indeed the whole cabinet if you want to go that route, Steve has some cabinet parts available for model 19s I think. No matter what you do that cabinet will likely have to be taken apart to be repaired. I don't know how far you want to go on this set, but if the chassis has major rust, or the set is missing parts, it may be worth holding out for a better model 19B and keeping this one as a parts set.
Regards
Arran

[KCMike]

  Charlie you might already be aware of this cabinet. But just in case you did not see it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Philco-model-19-...Sw5dNWsQRL

[morzh]

Yeah, that is Steve's. Beautiful. Won't be cheap either.

[ccomer1955]

I have taken it apart and begun to see what I can do for it. The moldings are in good shape, and except for the front plywood by the dial and knobs, the base is solid. I'm going to try re-gluing the plywood, then get out the steam iron and see how close I can get that gap to close.

I can easily put down a new veneer on the back and sides in one big piece. What I have available is much thinner than the veneer that is on it now, so I was wondering how I could get it level in the first place. I'm guessing it is French walnut?

The chassis is missing the electrolytic cans, but is otherwise in fantastic shape. No rust, and the shadow meter winding has close to 1K resistance, so definitely worth the effort.

[Steve Davis]

 I'm guessing it is French walnut?

Probably not. The wrap-around on most of the "Clyde Shuler" style Philco cabinets had an inexpensive  veneer toned dark to look like walnut.

Steve

[Tubesforme]

Yeah, that is Steve's. Beautiful. Won't be cheap either.

I must say, from experience that Steve's work is the very best I have ever seen and he isn't unreasonable in his prices either. Check out his WEB site. Tubesforme

[Ron Ramirez]

http://www.philcoradio.com/davis.htm