09-10-2019, 02:06 PM
OK, here is how the coil-set and bandswitch were sent to me.... The control shaft for the switch comes off to the left.
I don't hold with furniture that talks.
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My 16B
09-10-2019, 02:37 PM
Wow! they sure did a careful job... not! Here's the coil I need:
09-10-2019, 04:06 PM
I could use the one at the bottom with the three windings.
Please When my pals were reading comic books I was down in the basement in my dad's workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to figure out what all those squiggly meant. Circa 1966 Now I think I've got! Terry
09-10-2019, 08:13 PM
So, I've been slowly reinstalling components, re-stuffing bakelite caps, and hooking things up again. I check my work with the schematic and a zillion pics I take. I have run across a real question about the tone control. I've looked at Ron's post about the three tone circuits that were used and studied the documentation on factory changes. I have what Ron calls the second version. Looking at the schematic you would expect the following:
There are 4 caps involved, a .09, 2 - .025's, and a .003. The .09 and the .003 are located in the tone control itself. The 2 .025's are in a bakelite block. One of the .025 caps is always in circuit. You would expect that in position 1 as shown in the schematic , the .09, and both .025's are connected. In position 2, the .09 is taken out and the 2 .025's are in the circuit. In position 3, only the permanently connected .025 is in the circuit. Position 4 switches in the .003 which is connected to the plate circuit of the 1st AF, reducing treble. All is good. The 2 .025's are actually in a 7653C capacitor block. This is confirmed by what is in my radio, and by the Philco listed changes to the 16. The design of the 7653C ties one end of both .025's to ground (see my drawing of how it was hooked up in my 16B.) In this configuration, one of the .025 caps is really never in the circuit. It's either shorted or open and does nothing for bass compensation. Positions 2 and 3 of the switch would produce exactly the same result. The only way it would work as the schematic suggests is to modify the 7653C as I show in the drawing. Am I missing something here? Is the drawing for the 7653C incorrect in the "Philco Condensers and More" book? That's where I got the layout for the cap block. Also, for information only: The Rider schematic for the 16 is missing the connection from the screen grid to the plate of one of the push pull output 42's. I believe it is correct in the Philco Phorum Resources. 
09-10-2019, 10:06 PM
My 16b has the same tone in the 2-3 position as well..
Steve
09-10-2019, 11:29 PM
As I suspected if this was factory wiring. I'm going to modify the cap block as I suggested. It should make it work as designed, or at least it would make it follow the schematic.
09-12-2019, 04:43 PM
I ordered a relatively inexpensive tin plating kit from Eastman. It arrived today. First attempt results. On the left is the capacitor can, center is an untouched shield, and on the right a replated shield that looked like the center one. First, the pieces were bead blasted to remove rust. Next, they were rubbed out with 0000 steel wool. Then washed in dish soap before actually plating them in the plating solution. Finally, they were rubbed out again with 0000 steel wool and polished with Autosol metal polish (part of the kit.) Not bad!
09-12-2019, 06:03 PM
Very nice!![Image: https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/sm...n_clap.gif]
When my pals were reading comic books I was down in the basement in my dad's workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to figure out what all those squiggly meant. Circa 1966 Now I think I've got! Terry 
09-13-2019, 06:57 AM
Indeed!
And for these radios it looks right whereas chrome wouldn't. People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
09-13-2019, 09:16 AM
Where I find examples of the original tin (e.g. the inside of the capacitor can) it is very shiny, almost mirror like. This tin is sort of a satin sheen. Probably something to do with the prep. Perhaps the bead blasting is doing that, That's why I rubbed it out with steel wool before plating. Still, I think it looks more original than the normal situation with most of the the tin oxidized away.
Dealing with the large dog bone resistors in the power supply. As morzh said previously, it seems the large ones go down in value rather than up. There are 4 that I will need to change cuz they have reduced their value by way over 30%. I may play with making molds for these. I can't find an ink pen with that large a diameter to use that method. Or, maybe I'll just consider it a necessary mod and leave the new resistors. They are smaller so they would fit better.
09-13-2019, 09:33 AM
Very nice
 Going to order some for future projects.Did you mean Eastwood for where you ordered it from?
09-13-2019, 10:14 AM
Yes, Eastwood. Sorry. The whole kit with sales tax and shipping was just over $90. I don't know how many parts it will be able to plate but it comes with a pretty good piece of tin for the anode. There's 2 quarts of electrolyte and a container to do the plating in that is easily big enough for the shields. Plating power source is 2 D batteries. It only takes a few minutes to plate a tube shield.
09-13-2019, 05:22 PM
That is fabulous! I am tempted to get a kit and treat the parts of my 16X that need the same restoration.
BTW the coil is not forgotten, but I will not be able to get to detaching and packing up until this weekend. Kick me by PM as required 
I don't hold with furniture that talks.
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