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Can anyone assist in locating pictures for the two labels inside the cabinet for the above chassis? One is the tube layout and the second is a smaller label with patent information?
Thanks, this is my first time posting here but it appears this is the place for detailed Philco information.
Jerry
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
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Hi Jerry and Welcome!
I have a 37-620CS if you like I can take a look to see if my label are ok and snap a few pic of them.
Terry
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
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Terry, thank you very much. I'm putting that chassis in a 38-320 bullet radio and would like the tags to be proper. Not a lot of differences other than the output tube, but would like it to be proper. If I can ever figure out how to post pictures here, I would love to know how people replace to two wax caps under the center chassis at right up to the front. Appears no way to get to them without some major disassembly. Perhaps someone has a "trick". Don't know they are bad, but all wax caps from this age are really suspect. The chassis is done and the cabinet is very close. Just waiting for a speaker recone to come back. Yes, I'm a wimp, but better to leave it to someone who knows what there doing.
Thanks for the welcome, I have lurked here a bit but normally reside on ARF. This does appear to be the place for Philco (my favorite) questions.
Jerry
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
Posts: 7,216
Threads: 266
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
As far as I know those caps are replaced by removing the sub chassis. I've got two larger sets a 37-675 and a 37-116X that I need to remove the RF deck to do some restoration and repairs. By comparison the 37-620 looks like a piece of cake.
Terry
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
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City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
jerryhawthorne Wrote:If I can ever figure out how to post pictures here, ...
Please read the instructions on how to post pictures on the Phorum here:
http://www.philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=29
http://www.philcoradio.com/phorum/showth...p?tid=4371
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 1,562
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City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Thanks Ron for the methods for down loading pictures. Took me a while to get it right on ARF. With my Photobucket account, it doesn't look much different. NOW, if someone could suggest how to get the center section of the radio lifted enough to get to those pesky caps, I would really appreciate it.
Jerry
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
Posts: 1,562
Threads: 56
Joined: Nov 2008
City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Anyone have any further input on the replacement of the two buried caps in the very front of the center RF section of the chassis? Am I safe to assume one would remove or lift up the top section of it (with the tube sockets)? I can't see that removing the rubber shock mounts to allow lifting of the whole assembly would do much. Guess no one out there has any graphics for the tube layout either. Thanks for any further help.
Jerry
Edit, label graphics have been received.
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
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City: Sarasota, FL
Jerry, I just worked on a 37-630 with the same impossible two caps located deep in the RF section. What I was able to do was see the ends of the two caps where they connect to the tube socket. The other end of those caps both connect to ground. Once I figured out which was the .05 and the other a .1 I just cut the ends closest to the tube off and carefully soldered my new caps to the original tube connections. I couldn't see the grounded ends to snip so those old caps are still in there for decoration. My new caps were then grounded along the side shield close to the tube's connections. It was tight but it worked. I couldn't stomach taking the RF deck apart. Good luck!
Gary
