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Starting on Philco 111 More Questions & Pics
#31

After looking at your filter block resto, do both of your copper buss bars go to pin 11 of the filter block? They should.....

Also: a long time ago I used some larger poly caps to replace electrolytics in a set and it never did work right. Years later I replaced them with polarized electrolytic caps, and it worked fine. You might consider replacing your two larger poly caps that you are using for the two 2mFd electrolytics with modern electrolytic caps. I believe I used 2.2mFd in mine.

Yes, I know it shouldn't make a diff, but just my 2 cents......
#32

Thanks TA. The radio did this when I first got it. I will recheck my work but did check after the big can. About the same. After the bakelite blocks, about the same and after completing the resistor change out, about the same. It really is not a high pitched screaming sound, more like a rapid lightning storm of various intensities. Seems worse at high volume, at low volume I can't even see it on the scope. Short the grid to the RF amp, still there. Short the grid to the first detector, it's gone. Something is going a little wacky in between the two tubes. Of course the oscillator is in there as well. There is a couple of mica caps in the area that I have not changed. If that helps any perhaps you have some ideas.
Appreciate your time. Also, anyone who can answer my previous questions on labels for the shield would be great.
Jerry

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.
#33

Your test says it all. Somewhere vic the 1stDet/Osc circuit. Check coils for continuity, I don't see where the resistance values are listed.
Also could be something making contact that is not supposed to.
Are the tube sockets OK? Not corroded, dirty, bent, etc...
Although I have never heard of one, could it be a "noisy" 24/27 tube?

Next would be the mica caps.
#34

TA, sorry but I was typing my response while you sent in your next. To clarify things a bit about the buss wires on the big can. I do believe (with all respect) that you may be in error on the two buses going to pin 11. According to my schematic, pin 11 goes to ground and has 5 of the caps going to it. The other bus goes to pin 3 (connected under the box to 5) and picks up more caps. This bus goes to the center tap of the transformer.
I will check to see if all is well. The cap block diagram on the schematic shows pretty much what I did.
As for the caps, well Chuck indicated "poly" worked best. Therefore I used Solen Fast caps. Non polarized 2.3 mfd. I can certainly change them to polarized if you feel that would be necessary. I'm really a "dim bulb" on this stuff.
Appreciate you help. Jerry

PS: Failed to respond to a couple of your points. I did check coils for resistance, not having a value to go for but all looked reasonable. Wiggled the tubes around and even did some swapping, to no avail.

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.
#35

Lightning usually associated with SMD, replace the mica caps, all of 'em. That is after you test the variable tuning capacitor with a piece of paper to make sure there is no crud amongst the leaves or shorting going on. Agree could be a coil too, greening out.
#36

Jerry: you're right, mea culpa! I need to refresh my memory and go by the schematics!

Yes, there is a label on the 111, but my set has no lable either.
#37

OK my helpful gang. Here we go again. I will first say, due to your guidance, I checked everything in the area between the RF amp and the first detector. All wiring (remember I didn't remove any and the parts I put in appear to be fine. Next on to the coils which I thought looked ok before. Well, it appears the primary is open on the detector transformer item 9 on the schematic. The smaller coil on the primary looks good! I have checked it and checked it again with my dull bulb brain, it really appears to be open. Well I tested the radio again and it still works, or should I say with a short antenna I can receive my SStrans and a local. Don't know how that can be? I always thought "going green" was a good thing. Well, I guess Philcos have their problems and the "Z" brand has different ones.
At any rate I will be looking for a replacement one for this these or someone with the mental, visual and manual skills that might help. Still not certain how this would be doing if it is open and allowing the radio to work.
I have attached a picture of the output of the receiver on my scope with antenna shorted out and volume high. This is taken from the speaker, on my scope. You can see the spikes that are really quite loud at high volume but less noticable when on station. I can still hear them.
Am I doing something wrong?
Thanks for your expertise.
Jerry

[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...e003-3.jpg]

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.
#38

Off again and pulled the dang 1st detector coil. Pictures attached and indeed is open on the large part of the coil primary. Looking at it I can't see where the wires are open and it is a winding, as far as I can tell, underneath the secondary. Well, no way I can attack this thing. Not willing to settle for a shelf queen. Any ideas? I guess I will posting in the want to buy but not certain anyone out there has a 111 with a good detector coil, but, one can only hope Still not certain that this will fix the "Lightning" problems nor understand that other than that the radio seems to work. Oh well, think how well it might work with the coil right. I doubt that anyone offers the service or coil rewinding but when it comes to Philcos, well there certainly is a small market
Jerry

[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...0002-7.jpg]

[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...0001-9.jpg]

Any suggestions for what to do will be appreciated.

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.
#39

If the first detector coil is the same as the one found in the model 112 with the PP47 output, I may be able to hook you up.
#40

jerryhawthorne Wrote:I doubt that anyone offers the service or coil rewinding

Are you kidding me?

Last time I checked, the Invisible Man still offered a coil rewinding service...

http://www.philcoradio.com/rre/index.htm

Incidentally, the primary is the outer winding...

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#41

This is the better option vice using one from a 112.
#42

Thanks, I have hope. Ron, as best as I could tell looking at the wires with my bad eyes, it looked like the underside. Not certain who the "invisible man" is but your link went to you offering the service and indicating you don't do it any more! I guess the invisible man is, well invisible. Perhaps I missed some other link.
TA, YES, the 112 ( of which I have one) also uses the same coil as the 111. It is Philco P/N 3884-V. If you have a source, it would be great! On my 112, it was one of the few that wasn't bad!

Jerry

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.
#43

Ron still re-winds 'em, and you would end up with a correct coil done by an expert.
#44

Ron, you made me think about the primary and secondary. From looking at the transformer, it looks pretty clear to me the center tapped winding is underneath. As far as I can tell, that would be the primary. Of course I have been wrong before. Icon_rolleyes Well, its open anyhow so lets see what we can find.
Jerry

Jerry

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.
#45

CRAP, Ron, are you the "invisible man"? Remember I'm a newbie to this site. If you are, I would love a new rewind if you do them. Let me know! Your site did say you didn't do them anymore.
I feel stupid, sorry.
Jerry

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.




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